As part of my yearly autumn pilgrimage to the South Island, I perfected this itinerary to experience every gorgeous place on a budget. I couldn’t be more grateful for YHA New Zealand for hosting me on this incredible adventure and all the work they do to enable others to experience New Zealand without breaking the bank.
This post is in partnership with YHA New Zealand.
As much as I love living in Wellington, the autumn vibes here are… weak. Sure, an ice-cold gloom descends over the city, the wind teases through your scarf, and the coffee is divine. But the abundance of evergreens – native to New Zealand – means that, at the turn of the season, they remain… well, evergreen.
No burning red or orange. No falling leaves making a yellow carpet of the footpath.
Which is why, every year, I make a pilgrimage to the South Island, wallet be damned.
You may have heard New Zealand isn’t the cheapest country to explore. But there are budget options if you know where to look. And none does it better than YHA New Zealand. They have countless backpackers in some of the best spots across the North and South Islands. And they’re a large reason why many travelers are able to experience New Zealand on a budget every year.
My time hopping from one YHA hostel to another reawakened the adventuress within. Hence bringing you the perfect itinerary to enjoy autumn, and all other seasons, on a budget in the South Island.
Story time: Why stay with YHA New Zealand?
Fun fact: when I arrived in New Zealand, I ended up in a grungy hostel. I shared a concrete box with four other girls and no windows. The shower stalls were cramped and slimy. And the breakfast buffet served soggy bread with flies buzzing overhead.
Ew.
In a desperate attempt to get the hell out, I booked with a place called YHA. I didn’t know the establishment but it had high ratings and an affordable price. Good enough for me.
When I checked in, everything was happy colors and clean spaces. The design was fresh and the guests chipper. And I’ll never forget the handsome receptionist who gave me detailed directions to the after-hours emergency clinic (I had a UTI at the time).
After a harrowing night, I picked up a pizza and slid under my clean sheets with Wellington city noise lulling me to sleep.
To this day, YHA holds a special place in my heart. They are everything you’d want from a backpacker: clean, central, affordable, filled with awesome people, with lots of effort toward sustainability as a bonus.
So you can imagine my excitement when they reached out for a collaboration. All those years ago, YHA rescued me from exhaustion and misadventure. And now I finally get to pay it back.
An Itinerary of the Best Spots around the South Island in Autumn on a Budget
Christchurch city and charm
Jumping off the ferry in Picton, we drove 4 hours down to Christchurch. Although the city was largely destroyed by the 2011 earthquake, it’s one of my favorite places to explore.
The YHA there sits in an old building lined with colonial windows (such a vibe) and is central enough to walk everywhere.
Christchurch is an eclectic mix of green spaces, old homes, and innovative modern architecture. The history is interesting enough to meander around with a coffee, wade in and out of little streets, and marvel at all the turning trees.
Another reason I love Christchurch: the culinary calibre. You don’t have to look hard to find delectable eats from all cuisines. A personal favorite is Cameron Japanese Family Restaurant. Set in a quirky bungalow, they serve the most divine ramen I’ve ever tasted with portions bigger than your face. Nothing like a warm bowl of ramen on those crisp autumn nights.
Some incredible nature surrounds Christchurch, so options are plenty if you feel up for an adventure. The YHA bustled with trampers and mountaineers, giving us plenty of interesting folk to talk to.
Christchurch can be easy to overlook. But I reckon it’s worth a few days’ visit, with its charm and history.
Aoraki/Mount Cook Village
As one of the most scenic drives in the South Island, take the road from Christchurch, around Lake Tekapo, and into Aoraki/Mount Cook Village.
Aoraki was a highlight of the trip. The solar-powered YHA is one of the few buildings that make up the village, entirely made of wood for that cozy cabin mood.
There’s not much to do here in the sense of shopping or food.
In fact, it’s so remote I’m surprised there’s a YHA here. I appreciate their effort in going the extra mile because all other accommodation in the tiny village is rather expensive. And the small population makes it quiet, so quiet.
But that’s what makes the alpine village so special. Aoraki tingled my spine, in the best way. Mountains dwarf you in every direction. Long roads run deeper into Tasman Valley and it’s a place of such untouched nature as to make the soul weep. The booming silence rendered me speechless and I spent my days learning from the mountains, their stillness and grace.
The Hooker Valley Track is one of New Zealand’s most popular walks, and one of the easiest. Numerous other tracks thread through these ranges, with blue lakes and glacier views to soothe the aching spirit.
If you forget to pack your own food (as we did), head out to the Hermitage Hotel. You don’t need a reservation to eat at their café, lined with gargantuan windows and a terrace in the shadow of the mountains. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner and we ate there every day, addicted to the magic of the place. Seriously, check out the photos.
Autumn is the perfect time to visit Aoraki Village. Most of the crowds have gone and it’s just cold enough to require a jumper, with clear blue skies to ponder the snow-capped peaks. Though be warned the temperature drops below zero at night so dress appropriately.
Wanaka
Ahh, Wanaka. To me, this little resort town was an acquired taste. For a long time, I found it too expensive and didn’t live up to the hype… but my opinion has since changed.
Wanaka in autumn is gorgeous. Along the lake, trees turn bright yellow and orange, and contrast beautifully against the mountains.
As always, the YHA was very central, meaning we could grab a turmeric latte and be on the lake in under 2 minutes. The backpacker’s windows open out to the mountains beyond and it’s such a view that it made me cry – read the full story here: Crying at the Mountains in Wanaka, New Zealand.
Walking tracks trace the edge of the lake, creating a glorious autumn tunnel… leaves overhead, leaves below. I highly recommend these tracks at sunrise and sunset. Gold light drenches the lake in a buttery glow, intensifying the yellow and orange of the trees. The weather is crisp enough to wrap in a cozy sweater and you’ll find Wanaka’s charm in all her lovely denizens, walking their dogs and skipping rocks.
We also finally cracked how to eat in Wanaka on a budget: food trucks! They’re cheaper and far more delicious than sit-down restaurants, and I didn’t mind taking the food back to the YHA to continue enjoying the mountain views. Grab breakfast at Dripping Bowl, who make a mean mushroom coffee, and stop by Firebird for the best chicken burger in town (or the mushroom burger, if you’re vegan, it’s just as good).
If you have the means, journey out to Rob Roy Glacier and the tracks around Mount Aspiring. Otherwise, feel free to roam Wanaka’s streets, explore orchards and wineries, and eat takeaway by the lake.
Queenstown and Arrowtown
Our last stop was YHA Queenstown… another lakefront location and only a few minutes’ walk into town. I never tire of mountain views, so I enjoyed cooking meals in the flashy kitchen, observing the rowdy Queenstown crowd.
Other than lakes, mountains, and autumn trees, Queenstown is a place of revelry. There are countless establishments to drink and have merriment. And the labyrinthine alleyways, abundant with pubs, make for a unique bar-hopping experience.
Dance your way from the streets to the waterfront until the wee hours of the night. And if you’re still alive by morning, shuffle down to the lake for an outdoor yoga session with the rest of the hungover crowd.
Queenstown also neighbors her quieter sister, Arrowtown, one of my favorite spots in New Zealand. Every April, Arrowtown hosts the Autumn Festival and it’s the highlight of my year… no joke.
Packed with enough charm to make me dizzy, this gold rush village comes alive in autumn. Colors erupt across Arrow River and into the hills, reds, oranges, and yellows, picturesque enough for a painting.
Arrowtown is so special, it will get a post of its own. For now, enjoy these brief images and know it’s absolutely worth a stop on your South Island autumn itinerary.
Our time with YHA was unforgettable. Every location maximized our exploration potential. And the consistent delivery of comfort, cleanliness, and affordability culminated enough trust for me to consider them one of the most reliable options for accommodation.
As always, my autumn pilgrimage into the South Island was a wild adventure and I’m proud I pulled it off on a budget while experiencing some of the best New Zealand has to offer.
Stay tuned for more South Island adventures and misadventures.