I had qualms about visiting Matapouri, much less locate a secret beach.
Most of the land is Māori-owned (NZ’s indigenous people) and I’d read that tourism had done a number on the place, particularly the Mermaid Pools. And I certainly wasn’t about to contribute.
As the name suggests, Northland is the northern region of New Zealand. It’s also the most underrated. Most people fly into Auckland and head south to New Zealand’s more iconic spots, like Waitomo or the South Island.
Which means there isn’t a lot of tourism up north, and maybe that’s a good thing.
The land is sacred, so if you choose to venture out there, go with care! That’s a rule of thumb for tourism in general.
Northland… Worth it?
If you like beaches, then Northland is for you. Northland is 1000% for you.
It doesn’t offer shopping or a diverse dining scene. This is a place for off-the-beaten-track rekindling with nature where the sun is high and life is slow. And dotted along both coasts are some of the most magnificent beaches I’ve ever seen.
Beaches that ruined me for all other beaches, even Bali.
Mermaid Pools was high on my list before coming to New Zealand, and although they’d closed, many still recommended the area due to its stunning beaches and the charming seaside town of Tutukaka.
So Shaun and I decided to make a day of it and drove an hour down from Paihia. We don’t mind driving, as you know.
Tip: Paihia is a good base if you’re spending time in Northland. Not only is it an adorable little town, but all the best beaches are within good driving distance in every direction. If you don’t have a car, make friends with someone who does… people here are extra friendly.
Matapouri and the Hideaway Bay
Upon arrival, we drove through the small village of Matapouri. Although the beaches were beautiful, Shaun and I are more “secret hideaway” people so we continued up the road.
After some exploration, we took a wee walk and were greeted with a lookout over the most magnificent gem of a bay.
Yep. This was us.
We hurried down the slope, a bit of a steep hike but the grass was so lush that it would likely cushion an untimely fall.
Toes finally in sand, I looked around and was… underwhelmed. Right away, I knew we couldn’t get in the water. The waves were more of a surfer’s dream, the riptide too strong for my liking. I tried to approach but the sand dipped quickly and rammed me into the frothing current.
Not for me.
Despondent, I went back to my towels. Shaun was unbothered, lathering sunscreen and looking around in awe. It really was an enchanting place.
We lied there for awhile… then I heard my travel instincts say to move further down the beach.
Does anyone else have travel instincts? It’s like a sixth sense that seeks out heavenly corners.
Sure enough, we found magic.
As you can see from the bay lookout, a stretch of rocks curve out from the other end of beach. This shielded the area from the current, turning it into a gentle pool.
I waded in carefully and… it was the freshest, clearest water I’ve ever seen. The sand was smooth. The temperature was perfect. The shallow waters stretched out quite far so my short legs loved it, and I could see straight through to my toes.
We hung out here all day. We snacked and chatted. It was New Year’s Eve so we even had a dance party.
Why the Tide Matters
Toward the evening, when the tide went out… it became a different beach. Essentially a playground for adults and this is when the real fun started.
Water undulated around exposed rocks, creating sand paths and rock pools. I played out my mermaid fantasies, jumping from rock pool to the next, uncovering seashells and stretching out in the sand.
We sighed at the sound of lapping water as the tide receded. We studied the grooves and patterns in the sand, and the array of aqua colors as they shimmered with sunlight.
And the crowd, small as it was, vanished. I’m not sure if this was due to it being New Year’s Eve and everyone disappeared to get ready for a big night. But we didn’t budge. This was our party.
In this place, I danced and sang and lifted my arms in gratitude for the amazing year of 2019. I meditated and prayed for 2020 to be just as good to us… little did I know what 2020 would bring.
We packed up as the sun set. Since we were quite hungry, we drove down to Tutukaka, as quaint as promised with a lovely harbor and very tan locals. We had a cheeky drink at Schnappa Rock but they were way too busy on New Year’s Eve for a couple of salty-haired wanderers without a reservation.
We drove back to Paihia for some fish and chips, and planned the next time we’d be coming back.
It was one of the coolest days I’ve ever had in New Zealand, and that’s saying something.
Do you want more tips on the best beaches in Northland? Comment down below!
Today’s Tunes: Báilame by Nacho
