A travel guide to the hidden gems in colorful Provincetown, MA, including things to do, where to eat and stay, with a little bit of history and charm sprinkled in.
Along the east coast of the Americas, a golden swath of sand juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. There, at the end of the world, sits Provincetown… a vibrant community of artists and bohemians celebrating freedom from inside colorful shacks and Edwardian cottages.
At the very tip of Cape Cod, Provincetown (or Ptown) feels like liberation from corporate America. Scenic and lively, this is a place that praises inclusion and diversity, declaring all people welcome.
And there I stood, in my most colorful dress, in the middle of Bear Week, drinking it all in. I explored every corner of town, a compact strip of boutiques, luxurious guesthouses, art galleries, and restaurants with open doors spilling into the street.
Camera at the ready and utterly enchanted, I studied old architecture… read historical placards… talked poetry with playwrights… observed the avant-garde lifestyle crafted over many years, the manifestation of freedom of expression all around me.
I ate and drank and talked fashion with strangers who loved my dress.
Guided by the locals, I collated a few hidden gems in Provincetown MA to sprinkle some uniqueness in this travel guide. Balanced with the must-see’s, this curation of activities and locales will facilitate a well-rounded Provincetown experience.
Here are the hidden gems of Provincetown to enchant the soul and color the mind, a travel guide of all things to do, see, and eat in this spirited corner of the Americas.
Read also:
- Top activities in the historic seaside town of Rockport, MA
- How to spend a summer day in the mountains of Colorado
- A complete guide to experience the Wellington lifestyle
- 10 Best Small Towns in New Zealand for Slow Travel
- Experience Raglan, New Zealand’s little bohemian hub
The history of Provincetown
Provincetown began as a Portuguese fishing village. Then artists came, writers and painters and artisans enchanted (as I was) by dune fields and wind-swept beaches. The bohemian lifestyle attracted the LGBTQ+ community, and when the AIDS epidemic began, Provincetown became a refuge where people could receive medical treatment without judgment.
Today, Provincetown is America’s oldest continuous art colony, popular wedding destination for the rainbow community, and a hive of entertainment, from drag to cabaret to pumping nightclubs filled with leather.
A travel guide to the hidden gems in colorful Provincetown, MA: things to do, where to eat, shop and stay
Hidden Gems in Provincetown, MA: get caffeinated at the best cafes along Commercial Street
First order of business upon arriving in Provincetown was a bold cup of coffee. A favorite travel experience, I sought the help of the locals to find the best coffee in town.
At the waterfront, Kohi Coffee Company sits in style, serving Tandem Coffee and a unique blend of drinks. The cafe opens out to the beach, idyllic for sipping with a view as Ptown slowly wakes from a boisterous night.
Alternatively, head down to Cafe Heaven, a nook at the center of town lined with beautiful local art. The cafe perfected New American dining if you’re looking for a proper feed with your coffee and views of the Commercial Street bustle right outside.
For a different vibe, visit the Post Office Cafe and Cabaret for coffee, and stay until sundown as it transforms into a full bar and entertainment venue. Here, the cabaret stage launched many careers and the place is frequented by a variety of stars, including some of the biggest drag queens in the industry.
Coffee will always grace the top of the list on my itineraries. And with the continuous flurry of activity in Ptown, I recommended you stay awake and alive and vibrant as its denizens around you.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: peruse contemporary treasures at Room 68
Strolling along Commercial Street, I felt compelled to enter Room 68… an elegantly curated space of contemporary art pieces.
The calming aesthetic felt like a refuge from the commotion of Commercial street. Inside, I became ensorcelled by beautiful objects from prominent studios. I struck up conversation with Eric, collector and co-owner of Room 68, after he heard me singing as I meandered the gallery. He explained that the collection is always changing, pieces ranging from emerging artists to established studios from around the world.
As I perused, the confines of the studio told a story… textiles below art, light displays and strange mirrors and colorful sculptures all speaking to each other. My family scattered, each drawn to a respective item. Personally I couldn’t stop staring at Graypants’ Wick lamp, mesmerized by the soft glow and sleek design.
Room 68 also stocks the stunning Gamine eyewear, famously worn by Lady Gaga and un-famously gawked at by me who dreams of one day being so vogue.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: become enveloped by art down the Bob Gasoi Memorial Art Alley
Without planning it, I chanced upon Ptown’s famous Bob Gasoi Memorial Art Alley, a snug alleyway marked with art on every surface. In 1988, Bob Gasoi covered its walls with murals depicting sinful scenes and otherworldly creatures which sparked much controversy.
The fact that the art alley remains, despite many protestors claiming it as obscene, is ode to Provincetown’s protection of freedom of expression.
The alley is hypnotic. My sister and I were captivated by the Alice in Wonderland scenescapes… which seemed a stroke of fate since we had been discussing our kindred fascination with Alice for weeks.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: fall back in time at Tim’s Used Books
Down an overgrown walkway sits one of Provincetown’s quaintest spaces, Tim’s Used Books. As a lover of the written word, it went without saying that I would pop in for a visit.
It’s easy to get lost at Tim’s, a labyrinthine space of small rooms and shelves stacked from floor to ceiling. The collection is impressive, ranging from modern favorites to art books to ancient tomes.
The book trade grows ever more challenging in these times. But in Provincetown, the shop thrives, highlighting once again the town’s demographic of eclectic creatives.
Under a window, I even encountered an old friend: How to Change Your Mind by Michael Pollan. Quiet and welcoming, Tim’s Used Books was the perfect place to catch my breath before rejoining the clamor of Commercial Street.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: meander the sand fields at Dunes Shacks Trail
Granted it isn’t hot enough for a heat stroke, the Dune Shacks Trail attracts those looking to exit the busy town and reconnect with nature.
Provincetown is lauded for its sprawling sand dunes leading to forlorn beaches. The rolling sand fields have graced many canvases, puckered with footprints as families plod and lumber the trail, looking for open sea.
This area reminded me of the Giant Sand Dunes in New Zealand where, ironically, I wore the same dress for a photoshoot. Sunset drenches the sand with a warm buttery glow, making this one of the most scenic hidden gems in Provincetown, MA.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: marvel at the sunset at Race Point Beach and Herring Cove Beach
Every getaway should balance a hectic town day with a leisurely beach sojourn. And Provincetown is encircled by beaches, most prominently Race Point Beach and Herring Cove Beach.
Race Point Beach faces the Atlantic Ocean, a stretch of golden sand peppered with colorful stones which delighted me to no end. Unfortunately I didn’t go swimming due to great white sharks hunting close to shore. I busied myself collecting a rainbow array of stones, thinking how Provincetown had managed to squeeze color into every last drop of itself.
Alternatively, Herring Cove Beach faces Cape Cod Bay, meeting calmer waters devoid of terrifying predators. In the distance, whales blew water into the sky. Quickly I stripped down to my bikini and met the big ocean, cool relief spreading across my flushed skin. At world’s end, the water was fresh and crystal clear. I floated and rainbow stones twinkled below me.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: walk on water in Truro
It was on my list to visit the sandbars between Truro and Provincetown, inspired by Johann Hari’s newest book Stolen Focus. In truth, Johann was a large reason I visited Provincetown. Crowned as one of my favorite authors, he changed my life with his book Lost Connections. And I believe Stolen Focus is a must-read for everyone.
For three months, Johann went entirely off-gird at a beach cottage in Provincetown, where Stolen Focus begins. In the book, Johann describes a man walking on water, his palms upturned to the sky.
At low tide along Shore Road, sandbars expose themselves just beneath the shimmering water. It’s a tropical paradise for a refreshing stroll far and wide. Along this stretch, salt shacks and cottages overlook the sands, a picturesque scene for those looking to stay on the fringes of town, with only the sound of the murmuring tides.
I promised myself when I return to Provincetown that I would stay there… perch myself in a cottage that opens onto sand and walk on water at sunrise in reverence of the big universe.
Hidden Gems in Provincetown: find another world at the Province Lands Bike Trail
If you happen to bring a bike to Provincetown, you’ll find another world cycling the Province Lands Bike Trail. The trail takes you through sand dunes and forests, a loop which connects Race Point Beach, the town center, and Herring Cove Beach.
With plenty of water and sunscreen, this is a great option for my athletic readers looking for a bit of exercise on their holiday.
How to get there: transportation to Provincetown, MA
From Boston, there are a few ways to get to Provincetown. Many opt for the luxurious fast ferry, a 90-minute ride straight into Provincetown Harbor.
Flying is another option, with Cape Air and Jet Blue making frequent landings at Provincetown’s Municipal Airport.
But if you’re in no hurry, I recommend driving the length of Cape Cod. Each town along the way is imbued with history and charm. We took scenic route 6A through Sandwich, Barnstable, and Yarmouth. This allowed a glimpse at the quiet lifestyle nurtured on the cape. From Boston, this road takes about 3 hours to Provincetown.
Where to stay in Provincetown, MA
Although my preference for accommodation were the Truro salt cottages, there are luxury options closer to town.
In the heart of Provincetown, The Crown and Anchor is a restaurant, inn, and entertainment venue hosting nightly drag and cabaret. An all-in-one entertainment center, you almost never have to leave as the Crown’s doors welcome the best of LGBTQ+ tourism.
If you fancy the moors, AWOL Hotel is perched in seclusion at the end of town, where Commercial Street meets Province Lands Road. With a meticulous “no frills” interior design and expansive outdoor seating, AWOL is where leisure and luxury fuse seamlessly together.
For families and pet owners, Harbor Hotel Provincetown is a waterfront retreat with endless amenities to enhance your Provincetown experience. The retro-glam hotel comprises of an outdoor heated pool, scooter rentals and quick shuttles into town.
Where to eat: Provincetown dining
Thanks to the recommendation of a few locals, I landed in some gorgeous dining establishments in Provincetown.
With views of the ocean, indulge in a platter of seafood and cocktails at The Mews. Here, all windows look out to the beach and the kitchen serves seasonal ingredients from a range of local farmers and fishermen.
Or head down to the iconic Lobster Pot for freshly-caught lobster and Portuguese specialties harkening back to Provincetown’s Portuguese roots. The red glow of the retro neon sign draws in the crowd, and during Bear Week, the place was packed with hungry patrons.
Searching for a more cultivated venue, I fell in love with the Italian farm aesthetic at Sal’s Place. Another waterfront location, the tables are nestled along the sand. Eat impeccable foods to the sound of the ocean, a cinematic experience that romanced me until I was pink in the face. Or maybe it was the wine.
This concludes the hidden gems in Provincetown, MA to enrich your getaway here. The energy in this hidden utopia stayed with me days after I left. With a faraway look in my eye, I dreamed of an entire world like Provincetown, where inclusion and individuality are life’s priorities, coupled with a good party and plenty to drink. Bring sunscreen and don’t forget your copy of Stolen Focus.