Since things look a little different in 2023, here’s the new ultimate guide to see the Russell lupins in New Zealand. They are gorgeous. They are an invasive species. Let’s get bio-educated while looking at some impressive photos.
Every year, from November to January, lupins bloom across the Mackenzie Basin in the South Island of New Zealand. Before I moved to New Zealand (and before I cared about biodiversity) it was my ultimate dream to see the lupins season. I love chasing Mother Earth’s dramatic moments.
But as time drew near to fulfill my dream, I unearthed some dark truths about these proud flowers. The controversy. Agricultural debates. Car crashes.
I won’t lie, it rained on my parade.
But the thing is… the lupins are stunning. I saw no harm in enjoying them since I wasn’t actively encouraging their spread. I merely took photos and cried at the sight. That happens a lot for me, see here.
So here is the ultimate 2023 guide to see the lupins in New Zealand: purple lupins, yellow lupins, and every shade in between. And for the love of god, please drive safely.
Are lupins native to New Zealand?
The Russell lupins (or perennial lupins) are not native to New Zealand. In the 1950s, Connie Scott bought several kilograms of lupin seeds from the UK and distributed them along the road. She wanted to bring more color and beauty to the wild high country of the Mackenzie Basin.
I love this story. It’s something I would do.
And one could forgive her for not realizing how invasive the lupins would be. How deep they root in the earth, their resilience to frost, their hardy seeds that use the river to travel far and wide.
So yeah. The lupin is a declared pest. Hundreds of thousands of dollars have gone toward controlling its propagation. And tourism boards has been actively discouraged from using lupin photos to promote the region.
Lupins disrupt native ecosystems, including a few endangered birds like the black stilts. The lupins grow thick and high, making it an undesirable environment for nesting and perfect for hiding predators.
They have also been declared a road safety hazard by the NZ Transport Agency (NZTA). Apparently the lupins are so beautiful, they distract tourists and have led to fatal car crashes. Fucking hell.
But there’s controversy. Farmers have found it to be excellent fodder crop (I had to google what that means). Some have even been given the go-ahead to let lupins run wild as long as it’s contained within the property and far above the river bank.
That’s why, when you drive through Mackenzie Country, you’ll find dense lupin fields hemmed in by fences. In fact, I believe people continue to sell lupin seeds to both farmers and lupin-lovers.
If you’re interested, an article called War of the Lupins unpacks the controversy in detail, outlining the war between conservationists, researchers and farmers.
In short, the lupins are beautiful and entice tourists to Canterbury each year… but they’re not so great for New Zealand’s native environment.
Sorry if I’ve rained on your parade.
When do the lupins flower in New Zealand?
Lupin season is in late New Zealand spring from mid-November to early January.
Before the pandemic, the Mackenzie Basin attracted many tourists this time of year. You found groups threading through purple glory with the sound of camera clicks and selfie sticks.
These days it’s quieter. And I have a suspicion environmentalists have leveraged the travel lull to get some containment initiatives underway.
Below is the 2023 guide on where to see the lupins in New Zealand.
A guide on where to see lupins in New Zealand in 2023
What is the best location for lupins?
Although the Russell lupins have spread far and wide, they are most concentrated in Canterbury, particularly in the Mackenzie Basin. This was the place of their conception and they’ve utilized the lakes and rivers to spread their seeds.
Because lupins need rich, wet soil, you’ll often find them on lakefronts and riverbanks. And Mackenzie Country have multiple lakes, including Lake Tekapo, Alexandrina, Pukaki and Ōhau draining into braided rivers. The perfect basin for the lupins to thrive.
The lupins have also spread south into Otago, to places like Cardrona, Wanaka, Queenstown and Glenorchy.
Let’s break it down.
Are there still lupins at Lake Tekapo?
You’ll be happy to know that you can still find plenty of lupins at Lake Tekapo. In fact, it’s the headquarters for lupin season, one of the most popular spots for lupin-hunters throughout December and January.
Tekapo is a picturesque township surrounded by the Southern Alps, overlooking the glacial blue of Lake Tekapo. It’s home to the Church of the Good Shepherd, one of the most photographed churches in New Zealand.
Tekapo is the lupin “mecca”, where all flower-loving tourists (ie me) begin their lupin journey.
Although there seems to be less lupins in 2023, there is still a lot around Tekapo.
To see the bulging flowerheads in all shades of pink and purple, simply drive around. The lupins line Lake Tekapo and encircle the Church of the Good Shepherd, making her more picturesque than usual. For views from a different angle, drive into Lake Tekapo Regional Park and hunt for lupins at the lakefront.
Even in 2023, Godley Peaks Road around Mount John to Lake Alexandrina is lined with dense lupins, captivating with the backdrop of high country. This is easily one of the most beautiful places to see lupins right now.
Twizel
The road from Tekapo down to Twizel and Quailburn is still bright with lupins. Be sure to drive down any little road that fancies you, especially where there are rivers and streams. Enjoy views of farms surrounded by lupin fields, or wild lupin bushes growing on both sides of the road. It’s truly otherworldly.
Omarama + Ahuriri River
I would say the second best place in the country to see lupins is Omarama and the Ahuriri River. Unfortunately this is where we begin to see the strain of lupins on the environment. The Ahuriri River is absolutely choked with lupins. Here environmentalists are especially concerned for the endangered birds.
Unfortunately it’s very, very beautiful. Here the lupins grow taller than people. And along the banks of the clear waters of the Ahuriri River, it’s truly a sight to behold.
The Ahuriri River also drains into the Waitaki River. If you’re spending a few days around Omarama and Benmore, seek river activities and I’m sure you’ll find lupins around every corner.
Cardrona and Crown Range Road
Cardrona, an already charming township, continues to be dappled with lupins in 2023. The heritage town is enchanting enough without lupins. So I was rather giddy to see a few lupins growing around the old buildings and all along Crown Range Road.
I’d like to spend more time in Cardrona. It has a cozy ski village vibe, a place where I want to spend the days wrapped in a scarf and jumper.
Arrowtown and Arrow River
Arrowtown is my favorite wee town in Central Otago, especially for some old-town charm and Patagonia chocolates. When we popped in, we had no intention to see lupins. But I was delighted to see there were a few remaining lupins along Arrow River.
The trail along Arrow River is lovely for a stroll on any day. This time of year, Arrowtown was quiet and we found many corners to sit and drink the smell of oaks and sycamores (also non-native species to New Zealand). The lupins grew tall out of the riverbank, magical against the deep greens of the forest.
Glenorchy
The drive from Arrowtown to Glenorchy is epic. This time of year, the road is spotted with yellow lupins. Drive around the settlement of Glenorchy, exploring views from Lake Wakatipu and the rivers surrounding.
The mountainscape makes for an ethereal shoot with the lupins here. I love the quiet of Glenorchy, the majesty of the mountains. The yellow (and some purple) lupins looked gorgeous here.
Are there lupins in Wanaka or Queenstown?
Although the lupins used to thrive in Otago, I’m afraid their numbers have dwindled throughout 2020-21. Bad weather and effective containment have done good things for the fragile New Zealand ecosystem.
Driving through the usual lupin spots, I found almost nothing around Wanaka, Lake Hāwea, or Queenstown.
Mind you, that doesn’t mean the lupins won’t revive in the future. Lupin seeds wait patiently in the soil and they’re tricky to get rid of completely. I’m glad I was able to make it down this time to write an accurate lupins guide for others traveling in New Zealand soon wondering where to see the lupins.
They are indeed beautiful. But it’s important to educate ourselves and understand the harm of environmental stressors. It’s important to be safe drivers.
I hope you make it down to the South Island next season. Lupins or not, New Zealand will offer you incredible landscapes, cozy moods, and serenity of the soul.
Are there any lupins in Milford Sound?
Yes, there are plenty of lupins to see in Milford Sound, particularly at Cascade Creek. If you take the road from Te Anau to Milford Sound (what is known as Milford Road), you’ll find lupins all along the rivers there. Visit each rest stop and enjoy the scenic landscape dotted with purples and pinks… it’s one of the most beautiful sights you’ll ever see.
At the last campsite on Milford Road, called Cascade Creek, lupins bloom in abundance. Their seeds collect there because the river ends, giving way to the lake and mountains. It’s a stunning campsite. If you have a camper van in Milford Sound, I highly recommend spending a few nights at Cascade Creek to enjoy fields of lupins encircled by mountains, swaying along a crisp rolling river.
Are there any lupins in the North Island, New Zealand?
There are certainly lupins scattered in the North Island of New Zealand however, they are not of the same splendour as the purple and pink lupins of the South Island. In the North Island, you can see yellow lupins around Lake Taupo and there are a few fields of yellow lupins also growing along the coast of Cape Palliser.
