On the road from Te Anau to Milford Sound, this post outlines the best stops, information on accommodation and food, and everything you need to know about planning an incredible trip to the jewel of Fiordland National Park.
Every December before the holidays, Shaun and I like to steal some time away down south. We like to hit that holiday rush in its early stages when the towns are just waking up, the weather is starting to behave, and traffic is manageable.
This time of year also signals my disenchantment with civilisation. August to November are our quietest travel months, and by the time we hit December, I’m ready to dissolve into nature and forget who I am.
We live in Wellington so I knew it was ambitious when we chose Milford Sound. Because we wouldn’t be flying there. No, we would be packing our SUV to the brim, hopping the ferry over to Picton, and cruising the lonnnnnnng way down. And there we found ourselves, 14 hours later, camping in Te Anau for the next week.
Below is everything you need to know about the road from Te Anau to Milford Sound, including where to stay, where to eat, and where to stop for the most scenic “Lord of the Rings” landscapes (including photos of me dancing).
Is it worth visiting Te Anau?
Te Anau is worth visiting and, some would argue, an essential stop on any New Zealand road trip. On the shores of Lake Te Anau, the idyllic town is the base for those visiting Milford Sound and it’s one of our favourite places in the South Island.
Te Anau is tiny and packed with New Zealand charm. It has cafes, pubs, a pharmacy, and a few boutiques and second-hand shops. But as the locals will tell you, “You don’t come to Te Anau because you love shopping.” Here, it’s all about the wilderness… camping, tramping, and enjoying Mother Earth at her most impressive.
What is the meaning of Te Anau?
Named after the lake, Te Anau roughly translates to “cave of the swirling waters”. Māori legend tells of a cave along the shore filled with glowing light, which was later rediscovered to be glowworms. The name could be referencing the limestone caves through which water currents ran. The region is steeped with Māori lore, evidenced by awe-inspiring vistas all around.
What is Te Anau known for?
Lake Te Anau is the largest lake in the South Island. Ringed by the spectacular peaks of Fiordland National Park, it’s a beautiful backdrop for your days spent by the lake eating the town’s delicious pies.
Locally-owned RealNZ is based in Te Anau and they are your go-to if you’re looking for the best things to do in Te Anau. They have relationships with many operators in the Sounds and can help you book all the best experiences, like the famous Te Anau glowworm caves, cruises to Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, scenic flights, and access to Stewart Island.
Is it worth staying at Te Anau?
With its scenic lakefront setting, Te Anau is a beautiful town to stay in if you’re looking for accommodation in Fiordland National Park. The town is the gateway to Milford Sound, the last place to pick up supplies before entering the glacier-carved country.
We loved staying in Te Anau. After long days spent in Milford Sound, it was nice to return to civilisation and restock on food. We got most of our essentials from Fresh Choice, and we couldn’t say no to Miles Better Pies before setting out every morning.
We had originally reserved a tent site at the Top 10 Holiday Park though we were disappointed when we arrived to a patch of grass in the parking lot next to the main road. Top 10 usually has some epic locations… but not in Te Anau.
If you’re planning on camping in Te Anau, we recommend you try your luck at Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park.
Does Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park have any great views?
Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park is one of the best places to stay in Te Anau, and YES they have great views! It’s a quintessential holiday park, with tent sites between trees, cabins with varying luxuries, and shared facilities.
They’re also across the road from Lake Te Anau. We were pleased that our campsite had a backdrop of the glass lake and summits beyond. And on days when we didn’t feel like driving an hour into Milford Sound, we walked from our tent to the lake and spent the day snacking and swimming.
PS: yes, swimming in Lake Te Anau is cold but it’s good for you!
Driving (and dancing) on the road from Te Anau to Milford Sound
What is the best way to get to Milford Sound?
There are many ways to get to Milford Sound, the quickest being a scenic flight from Queenstown. It takes around 40 minutes to fly from Queenstown to Milford Sound, and operators like Glenorchy Air and Milford Air offer options that suit any schedule. Flying means you skip Milford Road, instead landing straight in the fjord of Milford Sound.
Another way to get to Milford Sound is to, of course, drive. The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is truly spectacular, and we’ve always preferred experiencing the land from down below. Yes it takes longer and petrol is expensive… but it’s the best hands-on experience in Milford Sound, especially if you plan on hiking some of the most famous trails in New Zealand.
How long is it from Te Anau to Milford Sound?
The drive time from Te Anau to Milford Sound is about 1 hour and 45 minutes. It’s a distance of about 120 kilometres and there are plenty of buses and coaches that make the trip every day, weather-permitting.
Is the drive to Milford Sound hard?
You may be intimidated by driving through the dramatic Fiordland landscape but the road to Milford Sound is not difficult to drive at all. It’s flat for the most part, which is perfect to admire the steep walls of Fiordland rock all around.
As you get closer, the road begins to curve downward. This is where the views get truly magnificent but please remember to keep your eyes on the road! And drive slowly if it’s raining.
If the weather deems it too hazardous to drive, the council will close the road.
What is the road like between Te Anau and Milford Sound?
The road between Te Anau and Milford Sound is one of the most iconic drives in New Zealand. Te Anau triples in size in the summer months as campers and trampers set up base before heading into the wild.
Highway 94 from Te Anau to Milford Sound is commonly called “Milford Road” and it’s incredibly scenic. Glacier-carved summits soar into the sky and waterfalls tumble down their sheer sides. And although it’s beautiful on a clear day, Milford Road is an epic experience on a rainy day.
The clouds hang low in the valleys, playing on the peaks. You feel so small inside a thundering amphitheatre of rushing rivers and waterfalls.
Not to mention there are multiple rest stops and campsites along the way. Below is a list of a few of the best stops on Milford Road from Te Anau to Milford Sound.
The best stops on Milford Road from Te Anau to Milford Sound
- Te Anau Downs is where boats leave to take you to the head of the Milford Track, famously dubbed “the finest walk in the world”
- Eglinton Valley is a wide open space that gives you a first taste of the dramatic landscape beyond
- Upper Eglinton campsite is humble yet one of our favourite stops as we inch closer to the summits, and it’s especially charming during lupin season (LINK)
- Cascade Creek campsite is a beautiful campsite ringed by the mountains, with a crystal clear river running through it and a spectacular display of lupins in December
- Routeburn Track is one of New Zealand’s most famous Great Walks and its southern trailhead starts at the Divide on Milford Road. This track spans Fiordland National Park and Mount Aspiring National Park.
- The Lake Marian Track from Hollyford Road is a challenging uphill trek that rewards you with stunning views of the glass lake against the mountains
- Gertrude Valley and the track to Gertrude Saddle is one of the most challenging yet scenic trails in the area
Arriving to Milford Sound…
What is so special about Milford Sound?
Milford Sound is part of Te Wahipounamou, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The park is world-famous for offering some of New Zealand’s most magnificent scenery, marked with sheer cliffs and dense rainforests.
Milford Sound is actually not a sound but a fjord… the only one in New Zealand accessible by road. In the last two million years, glaciers left fjords in their wake as they carved through the mountains and eventually melted out to sea. The peaks, valleys and waterfalls make this region a spectacle to witness.
It takes my breath every time. The quiet, crisp air and clean rivers make this a powerful nature escape. We love spending our days exploring the rugged alpine environment, studying strange moss and stunted trees. And we always have at least one memorable encounter with kea (green New Zealand parrots). On our latest trip, we parked up to enjoy some views and one tried to swoop in through the sunroof.
I should mention, rainy day or not, you are bound to encounter sandflies. They’re pesky little buggers and we wore long sleeves, pants and closed shoes to keep them at bay. Māori lore says sandflies are so dominant in the area because the place is too sacred and beautiful to linger. And for someone who believes that, for the most part, nature should be left alone, I dig it.
What is the best time to visit Milford Sound?
The best time to visit Milford Sound is in the summer months, from November to February. Our favourite time to visit is in early December when the lupins bloom and it’s still relatively calm before the holiday rush.
Can you do Milford Sound in a day?
In the summer months, the days are lonnnnnng in Milford Sound. The sun sets around 9 pm, which means it’s still light by 10 pm! Even when we were based in Te Anau, it wasn’t hard for us to venture into Milford Sound every day.
It’s a long day, to be fair. Milford Road can be hours long if you’re making all the stops. We had to pack extra food for the day so we didn’t go hungry.
But when we returned to Te Anau, it was often still light. Restaurants stay open late and we spent wonderful evenings among locals and travellers, talking about where we’d been and planning for the next adventure tomorrow.
Is Milford Sound the 8th wonder?
You may know that Milford Sound is unofficially the eighth wonder of the world. That is serious praise. And when your expectations are set so high, it’s often tricky for the real world to pull it off.
But Milford Sound does not disappoint. I became worried when I saw clouds roll through on our first day, but the moody weather only enhanced the experience. And given it rains frequently in Milford Sound, you’re more likely than not to catch it in all its glory.
Our trip to Milford Sound, including our lovely camping experience in Te Anau, recharged our spirits. It’s a deeply healing place, and you can understand why so much Māori lore is attached to it. It’s a place of reverence. And I can’t wait for the next 14-hour stretch that finds me once again beneath its peaks.
