Into the Ancient Wild: Mount Aspiring National Park, West Coast

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A pondering piece inspired by the ancient wild of Mount Aspiring National Park & West Coast

South Island, New Zealand

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It was by chance that we coasted into Mount Aspiring National Park. On a quiet morning, with my mental health in the pits (read here if you’re curious), Shaun shuffled me into Gemini (our car) and took us on a drive.

Adrift in my state, I thought he would take us into Wānaka for breakfast. But instead of falling away, nature pressed in around us. The road narrowed and the mountains grew taller. He had chosen north along Highway 6, twisting and turning Gemini toward Haast Pass. We became swallowed by the wild, and hence ensued a most healing, enchanting time.

Follow along on our gentle day of pit stops, moss photography, and ponderation of the prehistoric dreamland that towered all around us in ancient beauty.

Welcome to Mount Aspiring National Park, a sprawling playground of valleys, glaciers, crystal clear waters, and some of the best tramping walks New Zealand has to offer.

About Mount Aspiring National Park and West Coast: What makes it so special?

Mount Aspiring National Park was carved by over 100 glaciers during prehistoric times, forming dramatic peaks with steep edges and hanging valleys. These glaciers left deep gorges in their wake, through which glacial waters flow, creating rivers, waterfalls, and the occasional alpine lake.

Below you’ll also find photos showcasing nature at a micro-level. My favorite part of Mount Aspiring National Park was the forests. Many liken this region to Jurassic Park. That never meant anything to me… I never took a liking to the franchise.

I didn’t understand until I arrived… experienced the age, silent and almost alien, for myself. I developed a different liking for trees here, one seeped with awe and wonder and respect. I couldn’t stop staring at spindly branches, lichened with age. Dripping moss, soft and absorbing all sound, smelling of rich ancient earth.

I never felt more a child than among this verdant wood.

Into the Ancient Wild of Mount Aspiring National Park: landmarks, walks, and strange weather of the West Coast

Mercurial weather of Mount Aspiring National Park and West Coast

Over the course of an afternoon, the weather in Mount Aspiring National Park changed from sunny to rainy to foggy and back to sunny again. It was warm enough as we left Lake Hāwea. But the deeper we trudged into the park, and the more dramatic the landscape became, the weather turned wet and somber and mystical.

It is no surprise that these peaks and valleys have a mercurial climate. The weather changes rapidly, leaning on the wetter end of the spectrum, absorbing much of the moisture coming in from the western winds.

Mount Aspiring National Park casts a rain shadow over Otago in the east… meaning the mountains absorb all the rain from the west, causing less rainfall as the clouds move east over the peaks. A phenomenon I find absolutely fascinating, mother nature at work in all her great complex ways.

Blue Pools Walk (30-min walk one way)

Past Lake Hāwea and Isthmus Peak, the road curves north, marking entry to this wild land. The first attraction is the Blue Pools Track, an easy 30-min walk famous among locals. Mount Aspiring National Park is rugged terrain for the Southern Alps, running with glacial waters melted from the snowcaps.

This crystal clear water gathers at Blue Pools, churning gently below a swing bridge over Makaroa River. If you don’t mind the sandflies, it was common to leap from the bridge and splash below. Though best to save this for a sunny day to appreciate the clarity of the water… and to have a source of warmth. It is glacial afterall.

Fantail Falls (5-min walk return) and the Brewster Track

A quick stop along the road is fan-shaped Fantail Falls, an easy 5-minute stroll from the carpark. These are not the most dramatic falls I’ve ever seen but there is something enchanting about the icy river running underneath, the fairy-like blue pooling underneath that (almost) tempted me for a dip.

For such a short walk, you become quickly enshrouded by the podocarp forest and the river bank stretches in both directions, open to explorateurs. This is also where the Brewster Track begins, a grueling 7-hour tramp to the famous Brewster Hut. Now that we have scoped the area and confirmed its majesty, we will return someday when we are better organised to tackle the Brewster beast.

The Gates of Haast and Thunder Creek Falls (5-min walk return)

Continuing on Highway 6, you’ll cross the heart-pumping bridge called the Gates of Haast. Here I had to catch my breath and wonder if this was the best activity of choice, given my anxious state. If you get past the fear, it’s beautiful. A sheer drop to the Haast River way, way below, blue and white churn around large unforgiving boulders.

We pulled over for a moment, at my request. I contemplated life and death over the cliff, admiring human ingenuity at the small bridge, bridging the deadly gap.

Thunder Creek Falls

In contrast to Fantail Falls, Thunder Creek Falls is a 28m high waterfall that is too thunderous for a whimsical fairy scene to unfold under it.

Through the ancient overgrowth, you’ll come upon a platform and some stairs leading down to the Haast River. Mesmerised by the waterfall’s height, I climbed down to the river bank, careful not to slip on mossy stone and wet soil. I couldn’t stop looking at the mouth, water gushing from a hole, cascading down a giant nature wall with a roar.

I could imagine a glacier carving its way through there, leaving behind a valley wall towering over the gorge. Wanting to forge deeper into this strange land, I promised myself I would return when I’m better-equipped, physically and mentally.

Roaring Billy Falls (20-min walk return)

To witness the astonishing work of long-ago glaciers, delve deeper into the park. Slowly, the park opens to wide flat plains and you can trace ridge upon ridge, hanging over the valley. Stop where it’s safe along the side of the road and listen to the sounds, always of rushing water, the rain, and the wind playing in the heights.

Now that you’re in the wetter part of the park, take a wander to Roaring Billy Falls. A waterfall interrupted by giant boulders, it’s a good place to experience the moist climate. Fog may roll over the peak, the wind may disperse the waterfall mist, and it may be raining, all at once.

There are certain parts of New Zealand that make me understand Māori’s deep connection to the earth, all their lore about land gods and spirits in the air. This place is one of them.

Haast, West Coast and forlorn beaches

Onward past Roaring Billy Falls, you’ll finally arrive to the small town of Haast. The Haast region was claimed a World Heritage site by UNESCO for its diverse ecosystems of prehistoric flora and fauna. Operators in the town will take you around the glacial rivers and Westland rainforests, and you can spend some time exploring Jackson Bay and miles of forlorn beaches.

Ship Creek is a must-do to experience the essence of the wild West Coast, meandering through swamp forests and windswept dunes.

From there you can continue north to other prominent New Zealand landmarks such as Fox Glacier and Franz Josef. Or you might turn around… heading back into Mount Aspiring National Park, reentering the fog and rain and coming out the other side in Otago. Dry and sunny, you’ll appreciate the effects of the rain shadow, thinking of the great mountain beasts and river gorges you left behind.