Luxury glamping at Kawakawa Station – unique Wellington stays

by Pamela Edmondson

Kawakawa Station is a luxury glamping spot for those looking for a nature retreat in the Wellington region. Tucked against the wild of Cape Palliser, Kawakawa Station’s off-grid setting refilled our cup, delivering endless sunshine and an orchestra of nature sounds. Enjoy learning more about this stunning location below.


A two-hour drive from central Wellington, Cape Palliser is a region of unadulterated nature. Hills tower over the sea, buffeted by wind. Waves crash on black sand, frothing white and cobalt blue. Seals play in rock pools, and a lighthouse stands sentry high in the cliffs.

Over the last few months, I’ve been on a pilgrimage to find the best accommodation in the Wellington region. I longed for sanctuaries close to home to remove the barriers of time and structure from my holidays.

In a remote spot like Cape Palliser, I wanted to explore what glamping accommodation existed, how it made use of the region’s untouched earth. It seemed like a good time to go off-grid, approaching year’s end with burnout and a blurred sense of priority.

Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping

I’m happy to announce Kawakawa Station has docked my list of the best and most unique accommodations in the Wellington region, the space large enough to connect with family or friends. If you’re considering a getaway here, read on for a sensory retelling of what awaits you at Kawakawa Station.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

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Luxury glamping at Kawakawa Station – a unique Wellington accommodation

Cape Palliser – home to Kawakawa Station

Arriving on Cape Palliser Road, the dramatic landscape opens in dizzying size. I love it here. The coast is endless, sea views stretching into the horizon. The region is famous for the Cape Palliser lighthouse, having stood upon the cliffs since 1897. And Kawakawa Station, one of the oldest sheep stations in the Wairarapa, established not long after in 1919.

Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping

We followed our hosts’ instructions, turning left onto a farm. Kawakawa Station is an acreage with a few accommodation options for those visiting Cape Palliser. It’s a Wararapa hidden gem and includes a three-day walk of the property, fully catered with food and lodgings.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser
Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

We drove past the owners’ home and a few cottages, turning deeper into the land. Past a red woolshed and through a dry riverbed, we arrived at a section nestled among three looming hills. We swung the gate open and spotted the hallmark Lotus Belle Tent beyond the trees.

Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping

Kawakawa Station Glamping

The site consists of three structures: the kitchen, a bedroom cabin, and the Lotus Belle Tent. Attached to the kitchen are a toilet and shower, and around the corner hides the outdoor bath, enclosed by bark. Beyond, a hammock swings from manuka trees.

Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping
Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping
Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

We did not realise we would have so much land to ourselves.

The place is entirely off-grid, equipped with solar lights and gas cylinders for hot water. Among the structures is a large picnic area, and trees providing shade in which to nap.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

A notable experience at Kawakawa Station is of course the Lotus Belle Tent. I was surprised by its size, large enough to fit armchairs, a set of drawers, and a lush queen bed for a comfortable sleep.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser
Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping

An orchestra of nature sounds at Kawakawa Station

Nothing soothes me more than the chorus of nature. And the high country never disappoints with its orchestra of birds and farm animals, trees rustling in that rich ambient sound.

Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping

The Lotus Belle tent is ceilinged with windows, its fabric walls thin, exposed to all sound. At sunrise began the bleating of sheep and the land erupted in birdsong. Inside the tent, I listened to wings flutter above. Chirps and whistles and caws harmonised. I nestled into the sheets from the morning chill as the world lightened around me, the sun ascending over the hill.

Kawakawa Station Wellington Glamping

Stepping out of the tent, I was greeted by a large hare grazing in the grass, taking slow hops with long legs. Impossibly high on the hills, sheep grazed and I could only wonder what the view was like from up there.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

As the day grew warm, I swung from the hammock, counting the distinct bird species. Bees hovered over dandelion flowers. In the distance came the occasional bark of farm dogs, but otherwise it was blissfully quiet.

All around, yellow grass swayed in the breeze and it shimmered as if made of gold.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser
Off-grid retreat Cape Palliser

At sunset, a large horse trotted up to the section. It leaned over the fence to munch on the tall grass. A white diamond marked its head, giving sense of a worthy stallion. In the magic of the place, I fell into a fantasyland, pretending we were very old friends.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

A review of our glamping stay at Kawakawa Station

Kawakawa Station is private and remote in the foothills of high country. It is an excellent option if you’re looking to reconnect with self and whenua.

Without reception or power, it may feel like a shock to the system. Phones are rendered useless, and it may sting to be jerked back into the three-dimensional world. I’m not perfect either. I felt restless, itching for notifications and distractions. But it ran its course.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

Eventually I sank into the rhythm of the environment.

The sun shone without obstruction. Heat sank into my skin, and with the chirring of insects and flitting of birds, everything twinkled.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser
Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

Often we seek such places because we’re running on low, confused and disconnected. I happened upon this place at a particularly vulnerable time.

The chunk of land at Kawakawa Station pulled at me until the ball of tension unravelled. And I only wish I had stayed longer to continue this important work. But a seed was planted, and I feel the serenity of this place weeks since I left it.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

Getting there – Kawakawa Station glamping, Wellington

Kawakawa Station is a scenic two-hour drive from Wellington central.

From Wellington, take Highway 1 over the Remutaka Ranges toward Martinborough and continue on toward Cape Palliser. There is a singular coastal highway – Cape Palliser Road – that takes you straight to Kawakawa Station without fuss.

There are gravel roads to navigate on the farm, so bring an appropriate vehicle to accommodate a few bumps in the road.

Off-grid accommodation Cape Palliser

Things to do in the area – Cape Palliser

Cape Palliser is the westernmost point in the North Island, ensuring incredible sunsets. Swimming can be hazardous at most beaches, but I always manage to find a safe spot to dip my toes and drink in the rich surroundings.

The region is also home to the North Island’s largest fur seal colony. Meander along the coast and look for lounging seals. You’ll often find the young ones swimming in rock pools – look for them at Uncle Waynes Geyser.

A notable walk in the area is the Pinnacles Track – the Putangirua Pinnacles are another world, an ancient layer of eroded gravel, exposing sedimented towers.

There is of course the Cape Palliser lighthouse up a flight of 253 steps for sweeping views of the rugged coastline.

Off-grid retreat Cape Palliser

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