Rustic charm at Musterer’s Rest – Hawke’s Bay glamping

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Musterer’s Rest is a rustic glamping accommodation in central Hawke’s Bay. It’s a hidden gem for those looking for unique accommodation in the lower North Island. Read below about our quaint glamping experience at Musterer’s Rest.

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After a week of unprecedented stress, I packed my bags with heaviness. To be frank, all I wanted was to collapse on my own couch. But I knew one last push would be worth it, a three-hour drive to central Hawke’s Bay for a glamping getaway at Musterer’s Rest.

I booked this cabin out of curiosity. I was unfamiliar with Ongaonga. We always pass through the region toward more mainstream attractions, like Napier or Tongariro.

In central Hawke’s Bay, I figured Musterer’s Rest would affirm my mission to promote lesser-known parts of New Zealand where one can reconnect with the land and glimpse at a slower life.

I hadn’t expected to find a new favourite. The place struck all the right chords, from the rustic charm to the storybook setting and the jar of marshmallows ready for roasting.

Enjoy a recount of our glamping getaway at Musterer’s Rest, a wonderful glamping experience in central Hawke’s Bay.

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The rural setting of Musterer’s Rest

Musterer’s Rest sits at the back of a scenic farm. If you didn’t know, a “musterer” is Australian/New Zealand dialect for someone who rounds up livestock. It made sense given the rural setting.

The farm is beautiful. It sits on a bit of a crest, giving views of the rolling landscape beyond. Meandering down the gravel roads, we spotted a community of gentle creatures on the paddocks – sheep and horses grazing, a family of rabbits, and the constant presence of birds.

The land opened before us as we cruised over a hill and down into open fields. Through a gate, we spotted Musterer’s Rest, twinkling with lights in the evening glow.

The facilities at Musterer’s Rest

Musterer’s Rest utilises its environment, lovingly handbuilt to feature an outdoor kitchen, outdoor shower and clawfoot bathtub. The only indoor space is a tiny hut that fits a queen bed opposite the French doors, opening out to views of the valley and the Ruahine ranges.

To maximise on views, the hosts prepared a set of chairs, beanbags, a bench with large colourful pillows, and a firepit for roasting marshmallows. A hammock swings from a tree, and beyond that is the outdoor kitchen.

Cooking a meal with the warmth of the sun at my back is exactly what I wanted from this getaway. Outdoor kitchens are underappreciated. The birds and trees are sweet music, and the wind does good work circulating the fumes. Pots and pans hang from chains, and a large benchtop provides ample space to spread out and feast.

Each rustic detail was appreciated, including the old “ice box” where we kept our food cold and the old basket full of whiteware and cutlery.

The soothing space wrapped its arms around me, dialling my system down to a low simmer.

The land felt rich and lush. Throughout the property, native trees stand like guardians, trunks thick and aged by lichen. Spring weather brought a light rain, and everything glistened in emerald green.

What we got up to at Musterer’s Rest: a review

That first morning, birdsong filled the air and we woke to a pink world. From the bed, we enjoyed idyllic views through the French doors. The valley and mountains were a sight to behold at sunrise.

Eventually, we heaved out of bed and straight to the outdoor shower. There ensued my favourite hour of the getaway: standing under hot water with a breeze over my skin and a chorus of birds keeping me company. I’ve seen a few outdoor showers in my day but this one felt special with its rich canopy of ferns, shrubs, and giant trees.

After, I made a coffee and swung on the hammock, counting the fluffy clouds in the sky. I pondered starting on the right note every morning and added “outdoor shower” to the list of necessities for when I would own land one day.

I felt cradled by the environment. A bird circled overhead and disappeared into the trees. Sheep bleated. Cows mooed. I pottered around the property, reducing my world to basic tasks… making a snack, clicking the camera, writing in my journal.

In late afternoon, I prepared the clawfoot tub. Among the bubbles, I watched shades of green change around me as clouds rolled in. In this state of relaxation, every detail felt delicious. I ate chocolate cake and tried reading a book though I quickly put it down in exchange for the bliss of a resting mind, replenishing itself from an onslaught of noise.

Getting there – Musterer’s Rest, Ongaonga

Musterer’s Rest lives in a small township called Ongaonga, just over three hours from Wellington and one hour from Napier.

We drove up from Wellington, a scenic drive that featured rolling pastures, the Tararua Ranges, and a wind farm. New Zealand is truly a beautiful country, as evidenced by Ongaonga, a rural town existing in quietude with all its scenic views to itself.

Things to do in the area – Ongaonga and Waipukurau

Not far from Ongaonga is Waipukurau. Although a sleepy town, we enjoyed the strong sense of community and delicious food. A standout was Saffron, an Indian restaurant that served an aromatic platter of Tandoori chicken, mouthwatering curries, and fluffy naan.

Explore the area via the Tuki Tuki Trail, a series of trails for walking or biking, named after the Tuki Tuki river which borders the property at Musterer’s Hut. And if you’re keen on a drink, check out the various wineries in the region.