The slow-travel guide to the best beaches along the wild west coast of Whanganui

Whanganui, New Zealand

Going off the beaten track in the North Island, I did not expect to fall in love with understated Whanganui and the west coast. With its charming town centre, colonial flair, and black sand beaches towered with sea cliffs, I was blown away.

Whanganui isn’t exactly on the New Zealand tourist trail. It’s a detour from the main highway to Wellington. And it doesn’t boast enough accolades for international recognition.

But there’s a lot to love about Whanganui. A strong sense of community weaves through the streets. It’s flush with local initiatives for creativity and connectivity, curating the town with spaces aplenty to gather, including a beautiful weekend market along the river. I loved seeing all the young families meandering along shops and boutiques, having found home in a part of New Zealand that’s still affordable.

And there’s of course the wild west coast. Stunning scenery. Tracts of sand that make you feel like the last person on earth. And that brings us to this slow-travel guide to the best beaches along the wild west coast of Whanganui.

Related

• Experience Raglan, New Zealand’s little bohemian hub
• Off the Beaten Track in Waitomo: Ruakuri and Aranui Caves
• 10 interesting facts about Wellington, New Zealand
• What New Zealand earthquakes taught me about life
• Pros and cons of living in New Zealand: Read this before moving here!

A slow-travel guide to the best beaches along the wild west coast of Whanganui

Kai Iwi Beach (Mowhanau): great for families

Kai Iwi Beach (or Mowhanau) is a hub of activity in the summer. It’s also one of the best beaches along the west coast of Whanganui.

Equipped with a holiday park, Kai Iwi Beach is less remote than my other slow-guide regulars. But it’s a great option if you like the comforts of civilisation. I’m not always in an “ends of the earth” mood and seeing other humans make merriment does warm the soul.

That’s the vibe at Kai Iwi Beach. There is a playground for the kids. Picnic areas along the grass. And best of all, because it’s patrolled during summer, it’s safe for swimming.

The cliffs make strange shapes along the beach, fun to explore around low tide. And of course the sunset is epic given this is a west-facing beach.

Where to stay around Kai Iwi Beach

Kai Iwi Holiday Park is a gorgeous spot for cabins or camping, and just a short stroll to Kai Iwi Beach. The park is well maintained and hosts a fish and chips shop and ice cream truck.

Their facilities are clean and the hosts do a fantastic job making everyone feel at home. Bruce (one of the hosts) even left himself a funny review on Google that tells their story of purchasing the holiday park, giving you an idea of the heart behind the place.

Ototoka Beach: great for views and exploration

If you’re fascinated by geology (it’s hard not to be in New Zealand), I highly recommend Ototoka Beach. The wild of Ototoka blew me away, definitely one of the best beaches along the west coast, Whanganui and beyond.

This is definitely a more remote experience, devoid of any facilities. Not even a toilet. It seems like a secret spot for the locals, who often perch their van or tent above the cliffs. I do admit I found the most beautiful colours here. Sunrise painted a heavenly pink haze over the sky, and sunset burned in red and oranges across the Tasman Sea.

It’s an epic camping spot.

The beach is also popular for fossil hunting. At low tide, we wound around to hidden beaches, studying the different sediments in the cliff wall. The layers of fossils and deposits tell a 1.5 million yo story of the geological evolution of this beach. Get all the nerdy details here, and go check it out for yourself! Very rare dolphin and whale bones have been found here, and if you come across something strange, be sure to report it to GNS science (or any museum) as it can be geologically significant.

While we were there, we were lucky enough to catch a full-moon rising at sunset. It’s a memory I’ll never forget, screaming “I don’t know where to look!”, eyes darting from the sunset colors over the tides, to the sea cliffs burnished gold, to the moon glowing pink to the east.

Ototoka Falls

If that’s not epic enough, the short trail down to Ototoka Beach also passes Ototoka Falls. The waterfall thunders over the cliff, gathering in a stream below that wades out into the Tasman Sea.

Be careful crossing the stream at high tide as the water rushes with some power, making it easy to slip. We waited until low tide to explore that side of the beach, forever wandering along the towering cliffs.

Where to stay around Ototoka Beach

To stay close to Ototoka Beach, I recommend finding a B&B around Maxwell. We stayed at a little cottage called Dragons Glen. This was a lovely retreat that gave us a glimpse of rural life in Whanganui. And the drive to the beach offers scenic views of rolling pastures, tall grass, and curious cows. All the quaint things you’d want on a New Zealand slow-travel experience.