A full guide on things to do if you plan to holiday in Coopers Beach and exalt the summer haze of the Far North, New Zealand.
Every Christmas, we go hide in the Far North. Charming, balmy, and marked with endless beach, it’s my go-to region to replenish the soul. The sun swelters in clear blue sky…briefly interrupted by subtropical storms. And the lifestyle is quintessentially Kiwi, consisting of fishing, swimming, and drinking.
This year, we decided to stay at Coopers Beach, a tiny town along coastal Highway 10. Most people pass through Coopers Beach with a gasp at the scenic stretch of golden sand.
And after a few years of gasp-by’s, passing through was no longer enough. I wanted to holiday there. To sit in the shimmering beauty of Coopers Beach, get under its skin and learn all its secrets. It’s also great headquarters to explore some the best of the Far North.
I hope you enjoy this summer guide to Coopers Beach, and itinerary of things to do around Doubtless Bay and the Far North, New Zealand.
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Staying at Coopers Beach in the Far North: Activities and Things to Do
About Doubtless Bay – a brief history
Doubtless Bay (the area stretching from Tokerau to Mangonui) has a swashbuckling history of pirates and adventurers. These waters once hosted vessels from all over the world. Whalers and sailors docked at Mangonui Harbour, where an entire nautical economy prospered.
The ports saw the company of pirates seeking precious resources, such as New Zealand’s superior flax and Kauri gum. Māori people (New Zealand’s indigenous) were an essential workforce to the economy not only to supply food but for their seafaring skills and knowledge of the land.
Fun fact: Coopering, after which Coopers Beach was named, is to create and repair wooden casks and barrels. At the time, barrels were in high demand to store food, water and whale oil, making coopering an essential service.
If you’re planning to visit Doubtless Bay, understanding its history can facilitate a richer experience. It’s much more captivating when you can imagine whaler ships docking at the old ports, visualise how the heritage buildings once housed bygone industries.
Today, Doubtless Bay is mostly beach houses and cafes. But sometimes, my imagination runs wild and I see the bustling ports in their prime. I imagine I might have hopped whaler ships and listened to gum digger gossip at the pub.
Staying in the Far North: is Coopers Beach a nice holiday destination?
Coopers Beach is not a destination beach in the traditional sense. It’s not equipped for a convoy of tourists, nor is it lined with commercial establishments.
It feels more like the village backyard. A romantic stretch of sand frequented only by its neighbours, whose houses perch over the sands, a few timber steps up the slope. In a residential environment, it took little effort to haul my butt from bed to beach, exactly what I wanted from this holiday. (This is where we stayed, if you’re curious.)
Coopers Beach is sheltered by Pohutukawa trees that are over 200 years old. A treasured species in New Zealand, they are easily my favourite feature of the beach. Gnarled branches hover low over the sand and reach for the water, creating a woodland labyrinth that offers precious shade on a sweltering day.
Coopers Beach is also perfect for swimming, its tides gentle as they lap the shore. Children wade out in kayaks on their own, their parents unconcerned since it is quite shallow. It’s not the clearest water I’ve ever seen… high tide picks up debris from the Pohutukawas and their red saffron-like threads bob around in the water. But these are Far North waters, clean, unpolluted, with smooth sands pillowing under your feet.
Things to do in Coopers Beach: a slow lifestyle
You can walk the entire length of Coopers Beach in under an hour. The beach has many exit points in the form of wooden steps that meander under the trees. If you’re keen on a coffee, take to the sands, walk past the river and meander up the private path to BeachBox Coffee & Gelato. Or walk to the eastern end of the beach, where swings made of driftwood hang from the Pohutukawas, casting a scene of whimsy.
The sunsets here are spellbinding, drenching the beach in gold, illuminating the sea mist as it wafts into the Pohutukawas.
You can hop over to Cable Bay or visit the small town of Taipa. Explore the rural roads going inland or visit historic Mangonui. And we can’t forget the epic sands of Karikari Peninsula. More on these below.
My favorite thing about Coopers Beach is its authentic small-town vibe. It isn’t packed with tourists or operators, which feels like relief. Over the holidays, not many businesses are open (as they shouldn’t) and that was fine by me. When my options are limited, I’m less frazzled by decisions. Every night we grabbed dinner from Kebaby, a Turkish truck that is also a pizzeria.
Coopers Beach is not an activity hive and I hope it stays that way. It is a natural paradise without frills, that allows a slow way of living, cycling through sunbathing, swimming, and fishing.
Things to do in Mangonui
In a mere five minutes, drive over to historic Mangonui… not to be confused with Mount Maunganui. As mentioned, Mangonui was once a thriving whaler port, fit with its own courthouse, post office, and law buildings. Today, these have been refurbished into an art gallery, pubs, and boutiques.
Driving through Mangonui is a treat. Make sure to take Mill Bay Rd, which meanders down little streets and goes over a wee historic bridge, neighboured by quaint cottages. Past Mill Bay is Mangonui Wharf and the famous Mangonui Fish Shop. Although lovely with its over-the-water views, locals will tell you the fish shop is more of a tourist attraction: expensive and the food is just average. I much prefer Little Kitchen and I’ve heard good things about Waterfront Cafe & Bar.
Mangonui and Mill Bay are worth a little stroll on a sunny day. They may not match the grandeur of Auckland or Wellington, but they are just as charming and much more leisurely.
Things to do in Karikari Peninsula
For picture-perfect beaches, head out to Karikari Peninsula. It’s only a 20-30 minute drive, depending on where you go. And it is worth the trip.
Most people head to Taukerau Beach, a long stretch of white sand and clear waters. It’s lovely for a stroll or a swim, and we once rode horses there. Highly recommend.
But if you want high-end sparkling waters… that beach aesthetic worthy of Instagram… head out to Maitai Bay. It doesn’t matter if you park at Maitai Bay or at Waikato Bay. You can hop between the two beaches by walking over a little hill. And you’ll want to visit both.
Here, the water feels like a warm bath and shimmers in exquisite turquoise hues. The campsite feels like a gypsy village and there is an outdoor shower overlooking Maitai Bay that feels especially magical at sunset.
This is one of my favorite places in New Zealand. That’s saying a lot.
Little road trip to Cape Reinga
If you’re keen on a wee roadie, Cape Reinga is just under 2 hours from Coopers Beach. As the locals say, if you’ve made it this far north, might as well go to the top. Cape Reinga (and Te Aroha) is the northernmost point in New Zealand. There, you can see where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean, two shades of blue splitting the horizon.
You can also meander down to Kapawairua (Spirits Bay). Māori lore tells of spirits gathering here to depart the world, and I can see why. If you visit, you will certainly feel a sense of reverence there. The teal waters crash in perfect waves, and the wind sends sea mist across the white sand. It’s an ethereal scene, and perfect for surfers and other wind-water activities.
My favorite part is the sand… it’s uniquely multicolored, white granules mixed with worn away bits of seashells, sparkling in the sun.
Sand-boarding and epic photography at the Giant Sand Dunes
Of course one can’t forget the Giant Sand Dunes. There, you can experience the thrill of sandboarding (a nightmare if you have long hair) or you can explore by foot. It gets desolate the higher you go, but don’t be afraid to go deeper into this strange land. Walk a few dunes beyond (if you can manage the trek in the boiling heat) and take the most epic photos to ever grace your camera.
A perfect summer in the Far North
The Far North (including Coopers Beach) is lesser known to tourists in New Zealand but I hope you make a spot for it on your itinerary. If you’re fond of beaches, as I am, it’s worth the extra driving hours and it is some of the best New Zealand has to offer. There is a lot of wild, untouched nature and in my opinion, it is the centre of New Zealand slow travel and the Kiwi lifestyle, less heavy with commercialism.
Happy exploring.
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