The Ultimate South Island Itinerary to maximise your New Zealand road trip

by Pamela Edmondson

Below is an extensive itinerary for the South Island of New Zealand to maximise your road trip. Seriously, there’s a lot here. Pack your togs and your tramping boots because you’ll get lost for months circulating mother earth’s greatest wonders.


I love the South Island. Every time we dock the ferry at Picton, my blood buzzes with excitement. There’s a different emotion here, a quiet wildness echoing across open air.

The South Island is larger than the North Island and there’s much more to see. You could spend a year exploring mountain ranges, old mining towns, beaches and native forest. And get your quads ready for some of the most epic hikes you’ll ever embark on (seriously).

Below is the ultimate South Island itinerary to maximise on your New Zealand road trip. I always recommend going slowly, so if you have months to spare… you’re in for a treat.

Insider tip: a self-contained vehicle is the best way to explore the South Island. It’s common to rent campervans for months at a time so you can sleep among the scenery to get the most out of your South Island roadie, without the cost of accommodation. Check out my guide to freedom camping in New Zealand

Insider tip #2: Driving between the locations is part of the experience. Don’t be put off by the distance and prepare for some of the most scenic roads on planet earth.

The ultimate South Island itinerary to maximise your New Zealand road trip 

Picton

I’ll assume you hopped the ferry from Wellington and docked off at Picton. This is the perfect introduction to the South Island as the ferry snakes through the inlets of Marlborough Sounds, rolling green hills rising over gentle waters.

Picton is a cute little port town. I once spent three days here for a writer’s retreat. Moody mountains rose above my Airbnb, the wifi was wonderfully shit, and the food was average at best.

Much love for this precious place. But we have bigger fish to fry.

Nelson

From Picton, take the scenic route to sunny Nelson, where the food is vastly better and your beach holiday can begin.

Golden Tahunanui Beach stretches endlessly along the coast line, where I’ve spent many hours soaking up sunshine. The tides here have incredible pull, exposing giant fields of ribbed sand at low tide. But if you’re looking for a quieter corner to enjoy Nelson’s waters, the white sands of Rabbit Island are a personal favorite.

This mini-city is a pleasure to meander any time of day. I always find an excuse to buy a summer item here, like sunglasses or sandals. It’s just a happy sunny place.

Center of town, a clock tower dongs on the hour, an almost Parisian mood as you sip your coffee at the plaza.

There are many options to wine and dine and shop. You can munch on a giant pizza at Stefano’s Pizzeria. Or sample your way up Trafalgar Street with handcrafted burgers at Burger Culture or an exquisite pasta at Lombardi’s Ristorante.

And be sure to visit Jens Hansen the Ringmaker: maker of The One Ring for the Lord of the Rings movies.

The Abel Tasman and Tākaka 

South Island itinerary New Zealand road trip

One can’t visit the South Island without a foray into Abel Tasman National Park. Start at Kaiteriteri (beach town goals) or meander down through forest tracks to Split Apple Rock. And when you’re ready, venture deeper into the Abel Tasman. There, find a multi-day track that guides you along a wonderland of pristine golden beaches.

Tip: The Department of Conservation website is a great resource to plan day hikes and book overnight huts. Though there are some lodges inside the National Park for a more luxury experience (at a cost).

If you have time, I highly recommend visiting one of my favorite little towns, Tākaka. This vegan-friendly bohemian village is a great place to slow down and enjoy the South Island sunshine. It’s also worth visiting Te Waikoropupu Springs, a freshwater spring with incredible turquoise clarity straight to the bottom.

Pūponga and Wharariki Beach

Puponga hilltop walk

Since you’re out here, might as well make your way out to Pūponga. There are countless beaches to explore on the way so enjoy the ride.

Once you arrive, take the Pūponga Hilltop Walk to Farewell Spit. Meander the cliff edge at your own risk and bask in endless views of the Tasman Sea. I love a rugged coastline and this walk is perfect for daydreams of mermaids and pirates at open sea.

Then continue on to Wharariki. Park up at Wharariki Beach Carpark and walk the rest of the way (an easy 30-min track) until you reach the sand dunes.

At low tide, explore around the iconic rock formations, where baby seal pups play in little pools. At dusk, you can watch the sun sink behind the sea cliffs and the breaker mist aglow with the golden rays.

Wharariki Beach is a wild place. I had an incredible evening here doing photos and videos. And I can’t wait to return.

Wharariki Beach Puponga

The West Coast

Most people skip the West Coast of New Zealand. And that’s a shame.

The West Coast is one of the most scenic drives in New Zealand, beach after beach crashing into black sand and soaring seacliffs. It also houses a campsite near and dear to my heart: Gentle Annie. This craggy west-facing camping ground is where I witnessed my very first moonset. The site is expertly maintained and a pleasant surprise as I was shocked anything existed in this forlorn part of the South Island.

The West Coast is also rich in coal history, dotted with old mining settlements such as Denniston. Tramping tracks are aplenty to explore abandoned railways and mining relics overgrown with native bush. Charming Creek Walkway is a personal favorite.

Shaun and I love the West Coast. It’s a place far from the hustle and bustle for a bit of peace and quiet among mother earth.

Kaikōura

Alternatively, head to the eastern shore of the South Island, where lovely Kairōura resides. This is a particularly fascinating drive as you can still see the slips and damages caused by the 2016 earthquake. It’s an eerie feeling, snaking down SH1 as Shaun points at land masses that weren’t previously there.

Earthquake aside, Kairōura is most famous for its whale watching tours. The waters around Kairōura are a marine life paradise, abundant with dolphins, sperm whales, humpback whales, Orcas, and many more. 

And of course there’s epic tramping to be done, most famously the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway or the heights of Mount Fyffe.

Christchurch

Christchurch is another region with earthquake history. In 2011, an earthquake nearly razed it to the ground, destroying many old-charm buildings much to my chagrin. Today, the city is a mish-mash of old buildings and sharp modern architecture. It’s wonderfully bizarre.

Although flat, Christchurch grew on me over time. There’s a happening food culture with lots of green spaces and a good base to explore the Canterbury region. There’s the wine valley of Waipara, limestone cliffs at Castle Hill, and famous Mount Sunday where the village of Edoras was filmed in the Lord of the Rings.

Christchurch also neighbors Akaroa, a tiny French settlement with bays and olive farms aplenty. And it’s a short drive westward to Methven, one of my favorite places to escape for a bit of that small town life.

Lake Tekapo and Aoraki Village

Lake Tekapo is a tiny town most known for the Church of the Good Shepherd. The lake is a stunning glacial blue, surrounded by the Southern Alps. I’ll be honest, I haven’t spent too much time in Lake Tekapo, mostly because I’m always in a rush to get to Aoraki/Mount Cook. But the region is a utopia in springtime when fields of lupins bloom in pinks and yellows.

Lake Tekapo also promises some of the best stargazing in New Zealand. You can catch the milky way from Mt John Observatory, a world-renowned astronomical center at the top of a mountain.

Spend a day or two here before heading out toward Aoraki/Mount Cook Village.

This is an absolute must-do. Aoraki/Mount Cook is the tallest mountain in New Zealand, surrounded by scenic alpine tracks and the quaint little village below. I won’t say too much here since Aoraki/Mount Cook has its own post, linked below. Long story short… it’s awesome.

Moeraki

Before rushing down to Wanaka and Queenstown, I urge you to take a detour to Moeraki. 

Most famously, the Moeraki Boulders attract many tourists for their strange sphere-like shape, formed over millions of years and clustered along the beach like giant bowling balls.

But the fishing village is worth visiting too.

Living in New Zealand, I’ve learned to love small towns, especially those with a rich history and culinary scene. Best known is Fleurs Place, a rustic waterfront cafe with a seasonal menu of fresh local ingredients. Here Shaun and I had exquisite cocktails with a spread of seafood straight from the fishing boats, including the clam delicacy tuatua.

After that, take a walk around the village and imagine what life could be like in such an enchanting little place.

Wanaka

South Island itinerary New Zealand road trip

Ahh Wanaka. I always say this but I was underwhelmed by this mini-city upon arrival. The food is expensive and I refused to be impressed by the lake after visiting the likes of Tekapo.

But it grew on me overtime. Wanaka is stunning in the autumn season when the trees erupt into reds and golds along the lake. And I learned food trucks are the way to go… there’s plenty across town, cheaper and tastier than the flashy restaurants.

Wanaka is also a great base of operations to explore some dramatic South Island landscapes, such as Instagram-famous Roy’s Peak. The track to Rob Roy Glacier is particularly memorable: the drive to the carpark alone had my jaw slack with awe. And it’s still on my New Zealand bucket list to jump the bridge at Blue Pools, sandflies be damned.

Arrowtown and Queenstown

From Wanaka, take the scenic route through Cardrona down to Arrowtown and Queenstown. This drive makes my heart burst with New Zealand glory, with outlandish views through the hills and down to Lake Wakatipu.

Every year, Shaun and I take a roadtrip to Arrowtown for the autumn festival. It’s a magical time for wine, local autumn produce, and cozy knits, towered by golden leaves. Read all about the Arrowtown autumn festival below:

Arrowtown’s larger sister, Queenstown, is a New Zealand tourist hotspot. Enshrouded by mountains, it’s a ski resort in winter and a party town in summer. Every Queenstown memory is a drunken haze of laughter and feasting, dancing through the maze of taverns and burger joints.

Many tourism operators make a killing here, with a myriad of lake activities, most notably the high speed shark boats at Hydro Attack. And let’s not forget the highest bungee jump in New Zealand, though I haven’t gathered the guts to do this yet. One day!

Glenorchy

Shaun and I ventured out to Glenorchy one day without a plan or a camera. I didn’t realize it would be one of the most impressive spots in the South Island. Rugged snow-capped mountains rise in every direction as you jangle along gravel roads. There’s even a little community, featuring Mrs Woolly’s General Store, the quaintest cafe and gift shop slowly gaining Instagram popularity.

I can’t wait to revisit this region with my camera to capture every breathtaking corner, from the dramatic road to Kinloch to the actual Road to Paradise where the cows have a better quality of life than I do. I even hear there’s a horseriding business out there, which I wouldn’t mind trying to live out all my Lord of the Rings dreams. Check out that video!

Glenorchy Queenstown

Fiordland and Milford Sound

Although I’ve been to Milford Sound, I’d like to spend more time in this region. Often dubbed the eighth wonder of the world, Milford Sound is a valley of soaring cliffs carved by long-ago glaciers. They rise vertically up out of gentle waters, otherworldly in their silent beauty. 

The Fiordland region is impressive by its own right. Driving through is enough to enrich the soul with mountainous roads and grassy planes. Though I haven’t visited these places yet, locals have highly recommended picturesque Lake Marian and the arduous tramp up to Gertrude Saddle for unearthly views through the valley.

And it’s on my bucket list to do the multi-day Kepler Track, a photographer’s dream for alpine terrain and mountainscapes.

The Catlins

I’ve actually never been to the Catlins. For some reason in my almost-four years of living in New Zealand, I haven’t found time to make it down to Dunedin or Invercargill. I know, unacceptable. But everyone tells me it’s worth a visit, which is why it’s on this itinerary.

Nugget Point (Tokata) always comes up in conversation, a lighthouse watching over nugget-like islands in the open sea. The Catlins is also threaded with numerous tramping walks (of course), including that to Purakaunui Falls, one of the most photographed waterfalls in New Zealand. It’s also on my list to visit Stewart Island, New Zealand’s southernmost island and bird sanctuary where the kiwis outnumber the people. It’s a special New Zealand treat to see a kiwi out in the wild.


And that was the ultimate itinerary to travel the South Island to maximise on your New Zealand road trip.

Phew! Obviously there are hundreds of other worthy spots but for the sake of wrapping up, this concludes my ultimate South Island itinerary to maximise your New Zealand road trip. As you can see, there’s a lot. The South Island deserves months of your time but I understand that’s not always possible. Pick and choose what resonates most to you and go gently on your travels. Say hi to all the birds for me.

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