Two Weeks, No Shower: a Guide to Freedom Camping in New Zealand

A full guide on freedom camping in New Zealand, inspired by my recent humble adventures across Northland.

Northland, i.e. paradise on earth, is one of my favorite regions in New Zealand and this Christmas, we went two weeks without a shower doing some hardcore holiday-ing. If you’re interested in traveling on a budget, completely disconnecting from society, and intimate relations with nature, then this post is for you. My people.

So you’re probably wondering… that doesn’t sound very relaxing. Holidays are meant to be chill, nothing uncertain or unexpected.

And I agree! But after the most stressful year ever, a strict lockdown, watching our business crumble from lack of tourism, and being seperated from my family for the holidays… we needed this kind of adventure.

And Northland is the best place for it. Rolling hills. Amazing bush walks. The clearest beaches in New Zealand. You all know I’m in love with this place.

Related: Naked on a Beach in New Zealand

A Guide to Freedom Camping in New Zealand: What, Why, Where, and How

Unprecedented Busy-ness and Being Adaptable

I thought my idea of hiding in Northland for the holidays was genius. 

Turns out… the rest of New Zealand had the same idea. With closed borders and restless Kiwis abound, Northland was the busiest I’d ever seen it.

And… we didn’t have accommodation sorted. Before you call me crazy, Shaun and I don’t like to overplan. There’s always somewhere to stay in New Zealand. Literally almost everyone has an AirBnB.

But as I sat in Helena Bay Cafe – the most scenic café ever – and searched for vacancies across Northland, there were none. 

I called hotels. Camping grounds. Nothing.

Panic set in.

I turned to Shaun, who sipped his iced coffee, enjoying the views. 

“Everything’s booked,” I said darkly.

He shrugged. “Guess we’re freedom camping.”

And as part of my resolution not to stress about everything… I took a breath and nodded. For the next 2 weeks, there would be no roof, no showers, no conveniences. Nothing other than nature.

And that brings us to this guide on freedom camping in New Zealand.

What is Freedom Camping?

According to the Department of Conservation (DOC), “Freedom camping is to camp on public land other than at a campsite.”

There are some rules around this to protect the environment… because that’s something we do here in New Zealand. But these spots are virtually everywhere. They range from parking lots to little plots of land. And they’re free! 

But unlike camping grounds, they don’t have any facilities or showers.

Thankfully, we weren’t unprepared. Our SUV easily fits a bed and we’d packed our tent and cooking supplies.

And Northland is an awesome place to freedom camp. Most of these spots are right on the beach or in some lush remote location.

We use the app CamperMate, which maps out where all these locations are. It’s super convenient and perfect to ensure you aren’t freedom camping illegally.

Related: The Ultimate Itinerary to Travel the North Island, New Zealand

Why Freedom Camp?

If the reasons I listed above weren’t enough, freedom camping comes with another advantage: no itinerary!

Now I know that sounds terrifying. Three years ago, I would’ve laughed at the thought.

Me, ornery control freak, without a plan. Good one.

But if you can manage to let your love for nature and adventure win over your desire to control everything… you’d see the magic.

Freedom camping allows you to move across the country at a leisurely pace. No timeframes to check-in or check-out. If you don’t like a place, you can move on. Or if it’s heaven (which is often), then stay as long as you like!

And you know what Northland has? Beaches. Who needs a shower when you can go for a swim at sunrise? We did this every morning at Maitai Bay. Although the campsite was full, DOC allowed us to park down by the lot…. which happened to be right on the beach. Better views than the campsite, and free!

I keep mentioning the “free” part because it’s actually amazing. Think about planning a trip… how much of our money goes toward accommodation? Erase that expense, and we can spend money on other things, like local food and activities.

So you’ve decided to live wild and free… What supplies do you need?

Through some trial and error, Shaun and I have perfected our supply list for “the wild”. Here’s a list to pack appropriately.

• A tent. Even if you can sleep in your vehicle, it’s always good to bring a tent, especially if it means you can move closer to your point of interest (i.e. the actual beach!).
• A comfortable mattress. It’s worth investing a bit of money here. There’s nothing more exhausting than sleepless nights and days of aches and pains. You need your body well-rested so you can do all the adventuring! 
• Pillows and blankets. Even in summer, don’t underestimate how cold the nights might be in Northland, particularly if you’re around the Tutukaka Coast. Sleeping bags also work but I find them too constricting.
• Portable stove. Freedom camping means no facilities so unless you plan on eating out every day (expensive to do in NZ), you’ll need a portable stovetop.
• Cooking utensils and pantry items: on the same note, bring your kitchen with you. That includes pots and pans, mugs, cutlery, and all your favorite herbs, spices, and oils. And don’t forget coffee and tea! Nothing better than a steaming cuppa on a beach at sunset.
• Water and food. You never know where you’ll end up in New Zealand, and some areas are quite remote. Always have a good supply of food and water.
• Lantern or torch. Freedom camping grounds tend not to be well-lit. You’ll need a source of light, especially if you’re cooking dinner or making your bed after sundown.
• Other convenient items. Go nuts with fancy supplies, if you can afford it. There are so many things to make your camping experience more convenient, from optimal backpacks to shades and mosquito nets. Do you!

You can find most of this stuff for an affordable price on TradeMe. But if you’re looking for shiny toys (at a cost), Kathmandu has all your camping needs. With style.

Some Obvious Don’ts

As one who promotes tourism, I’m always wary of the few “bad eggs” that ruin it for the rest of us.

I only have one:

• Don’t be a bad egg.

Be one of the good ones. No littering or damaging the environment in any way. Take all your waste with you. Don’t light fires if you’re not meant to. Don’t venture into prohibited areas. Respect the locals.

New Zealand is amazing for nature-lovers because of the freedom we have to interact with the land, sleep on it, and draw from its mana. And we want to keep it that way. So respect the land and follow the rules.

Back to no showers… was it worth it?

Cleanliness is one of my favorite things on planet earth. So I won’t lie, it wasn’t always comfortable knowing no shower awaited at night. And to skip my skincare routine… sacrilege.

But it’s not comfortable to relinquish control.

2020 was a difficult year for us. We needed something to jolt the system. We needed to return to nature, and you all know I preach about that on the wellbeing side of this blog.

Related: How I Learned to Be Happy.

If we’d gotten a hotel room, I know we would’ve wasted hours on our laptops in the name of being “productive”. If we’d had a clear itinerary, I know I would’ve just gone through the motions until it was time to go home.

This experience anchored us in the present moment, and I encourage you to try it. If anything, you’ll have a great tan.

That’s it for the New Zealand guide to freedom camping. Stay tuned for more misadventures.

Today’s Tunes: Current by Phoria