Off the Beaten Track in Waitomo

A meandering guide to go off the beaten track in Waitomo away from the crowds, exploring Ruakuri and Aranui Caves and all the magical creatures within… including seeing glowworms for free

Waikato, New Zealand

When we planned a foray into the Waitomo region last week, I quickly realised I wasn’t in the mood for paid tours or rowdy crowds.

Waitomo Caves are world famous for blackwater rafting and the twinkling glow worms… bioluminescent larvae that drip from the cavernous ceiling and glow in the dark. Pre-pandemic, Waitomo saw thousands through the caves every year, filling the hypnotic underground with chatter and camera clicks.

But as a professed “slow traveller”, I wanted to experience Waitomo in a quieter way. To listen to nature as intended… the silence of caves and chirring of birds and insects. And after a few difficult years (thanks Covid), it felt good to stick with free activities, and to go gently with our tired bodies.

Below is a meandering guide to go off the beaten track in Waitomo, to venture down Ruakuri and Aranui caves, experience an enchanting labyrinth of rivers and tunnels, and see glowworms for free.

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Off the Beaten Track in Waitomo: Ruakuri and Aranui Caves

The geology of Waitomo: How did the limestone caves form? 

In the Waitomo region, limestone caves formed millions of years ago, back when everything was underwater. As the rock began to surface, water carved pathways by dissolving the limestone, creating a labyrinthine network of tunnels, rivers, and arches. Overtime the caves provided safe haven for a myriad of creatures, most notably weta colonies and the mesmerising glow worms.

Inside the moist caves, water drips with limestone deposits, creating stalactites and stalagmites. These pillars drop from the cave ceilings and rise out of the ground like teeth in a giant maw, menacing and breathtaking at once.

It’s important to note these caves are sensitive to damage. Stressors as minor as heat (from people or artificial light) or carbon dioxide from people’s breath can cause changes to the ecosystem. And caves can’t grow back like trees… any degradation would take thousands of years to recover.

Too much farming or foresting can cause debris to block or collapse the caves, which can endanger the flora and fauna within… including the glow worms. So please be mindful, tread gently and leave no trace behind.

Where to stay: rolling pastures of Te Kuiti

If you’re looking for accommodation in the Waitomo region, I recommend finding a local B&B around Te Kuiti. Although the town center is a bit too sleepy for my taste, it has all the necessities, including a few cafes. Te Kuiti is also a great glimpse into Kiwi culture with its shearing events and many, many sheep.

Because of this, the rolling farmlands are beautiful and many families have established a B&B on their property for visitors like me, who enjoy the smell of grass and the sight of grazing farm animals first thing in the morning.

Ruakuri Bushwalk: seeing glow worms for free

From Waitomo Village, it’s a quick 6 minute drive to the entrance of Ruakuri Bushwalk. No special tools are needed for this tramp, other than a good pair of boots… it can get a bit wet, especially if you want a closer look at some of the caves.

In the first few meters, you’ll wade into a forested gorge flanked by limestone walls overgrown with moss and saplings. The walls rise high, high above, and we glimpsed their tops through cracks in the canopy, feeling rather small.

The path winds through the gorge and it’s not long before the first limestone cave appears.

A labyrinth of caves

If like me, you’re fascinated by Mother Earth’s dark corners, you may feel drawn to the textured arches and trickling waters, leading into a deep black hole.

I felt the pull to venture inside and explore its mysteries… tending the curious human spirit akin to the local Māori who discovered these caves long ago. But out of fear of damaging the caves, and a potential run-in with creepy crawlers, I moved myself along.

The track goes over and under caves, and it was quite thrilling to lose ourselves in the maze. We forked down little paths that sunk under the limestone, oohing and aahing at the cool, damp quiet… just what I wanted out of my Waitomo adventures.

I will admit I fled a cave or two after encounters with cave wetas. The giant insects are harmless… and I stayed long enough for Shaun to point them out with a flashlight. But I rushed out with a shudder and whimper, so I don’t have any photos. There’s plenty on Google.

Ruakuri Cave and Aranui Cave are impressive in their own right. These are giant holes through which water runs far below, accessible by a hanging platform. There were hardly any people when we went, so we used the flashlights on our phones to light the way. I highly recommend giving these caves a visit… they’re truly something to behold.

Note that if you visit this track at night, glow worms dot every cave in a stunning display of a starry night. And it’s free!

Waitomo Walkway: for beautiful limestone landscapes

From the same carpark is also the entrance to the Waitomo Walkway… a longer track that carves through the gorge and out onto farmlands, displaying limestone landscapes, more caves, and ends at the famous Waitomo Caves.

This walk is also worth your time and you’ll likely spot groups of cave divers wearing rubber boots and wetsuits, carrying the distinct tube for blackwater rafting. I will admit, seeing these groups made me yearn for the black labyrinth adventure. Now that I’d experienced Waitomo on my own terms, I’ll file this away for next time… when I may be ready for something a bit louder and more adrenaline-pumping.