Retreat at Kaituna Riverside Cottages: Going Off-Grid in the Wairarapa

After a particularly hectic week, this is a retelling of my nature retreat at Kaituna Riverside Cottages… an off-grid slice of paradise in the Wairarapa where a family found Tūrangawaewae and I remembered to catch my breath.

Over the hill from Wellington, deep in the Wairarapa, sits Kaituna Riverside Cottages. Tucked into the foothills of the Tararua Ranges, it’s surrounded by nothing but nature. This made it the perfect getaway from my crazy work-heavy life.

I talk a lot about slowing down on this blog. But truth is, I’m not very good at it. Working a full-time job while building an online business doesn’t offer many quiet moments and by the time I landed on Rose’s land, I was sleep-deprived, wired, and doubting my entire existence.

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Kaituna Riverside Cottages: Off-Grid in the Wairarapa

Greeted by Dogs and Ducks

Soon as Shaun and I stepped out of the car, two hounds came running and I knew I was home. A Rottweiler and Border Collie, they sniffed at my ankles and hopped in excitement.

As we made their acquaintance, a graceful woman glided up the path. I sensed her groundedness immediately, like she belonged here as much as the trees. She tsked at her hounds to calm and introduced herself: Rose, kaitiaki of this land and our host.

She welcomed us and gestured across the grounds, including the pond where three raven ducks bobbed and watched us with curiosity.

“They’re very friendly,” she said. “You can feed them, if you like.”

I looked around from animals to grass to rustling leaves. Sun filtered through the trees and a gentle wind tugged at my hair. I was in the right place.

Kaituna Riverside Cottages: Off-Grid Coziness and all its Wairarapa comforts

As Rose led us down a gravel path, the Glade Cottage came into view: a wooden cabin with a pitched roof and two glass doors swung open.

On the other side, the Tararua Ranges rose like great beasts. The river murmured, not too far below, and fantails swung from bush to tree.

Overwhelmed by the beauty of everything, I informed Rose I’ll be doing lots of photography. I’ll surely capture the river, the ranges, the land, and even get up at sunrise for more.

“Okay,” she said, “well, make sure to relax too.”

I mumbled in agreement as Shaun chortled behind me. Right. Relaxation.

The inside of the cottage was nothing short of charming. A futon faced the entrance from which to enjoy the view. And I was pleased to see a sizable bathroom with a shower and toilet. The kitchenette was fully-equipped, and a ladder swung down from a wee loft where our bed awaited.

Rose waved and pointed at her expert landscaping, and I was thrilled to see a solar panel drinking the afternoon sun. The cottage was entirely self-sustained, with the use of wood, rainwater, and solar energy. All materials were sourced from New Zealand tradespeople, and personal touches lay in abundance… from the vase of olive branches at the window to an old coffee grinder on the kitchen shelf.

And I was thrilled to see a bowl of homegrown fruits and a mountain of tea in the cabinet.

As Rose spoke, I could feel how much love and work went into creating this retreat. She stressed that our goal here should be to unwind and reconnect with nature. Maybe she sensed I was one of the resistant ones.

After a few instructions, she sauntered away with one last thing. “Your outdoor bath will be ready at 5:00pm.”

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Walking Tracks and Riverbeds

Soon as we plopped our bags down, we went exploring. 

Rose’s hard work didn’t only go into the cottage. It spanned the entire land, with little sign posts showing the way through walking tracks.

A pair of chairs greeted us as we reached a lookout and we finally glimpsed the river below. And I think this is what makes Kaituna Riverside Cottages so unique… I’m not aware of many off-grid getaways that offer private river access, especially not in the Wairarapa.

Thrilled, we circled back to a steep climb down to the river, lined with rope for leverage. A waterfall followed us all the way down, and it smelled rich of soil and ancient waters. We landed on a blanket of rocks where the river awaited, cutting through the gorge.

Water swirled in gentle pools among the rock and I remembered Rose saying these are perfect for swimming in the summer. In the shadow of the mountains, I could picture it… happy and miniscule, wading into the river and its gentle current.

As evening approached, sunrays cut across the top of the mountain peaks. We hopped over stones, exploring the length of the gorge. I was surprised by the crystal clear waters, how many details I could spot under the surface, including red rocks made of jasper.

The abundance of nature was a sensory experience. Smells, sounds, the filtering sun drenching everything in a warm golden haze… it replenished the spirit.

The Outdoor Bath and Pondering my Existence

On the hour, we returned to the cottage where I threw on my togs (swimming suit, for you non-Kiwis) and rushed back out into the trees. The trail took us to another lookout of mountains and river. And there sat the pièce de resistance: the outdoor bath.

As you may know, outdoor baths are a New Zealand staple. And why not, when nature is bountiful?

The woodburner popped as it warmed the bath and Rose made sure we had everything we needed: soap, flower petals, towels, and views galore.

At this point, I had to part with my camera. I remembered Rose’s command to relax and this was almost forced upon me as I sank into the warm water. My muscles gave and my head quieted, My skin sang in happy tingles.

In awe, I studied the mountains, native bush, and the river. A fluff of cloud turned pink in the sky and pink petals purled around me. And the city buzz finally left my body.

It’s moments like this where I have to pause and think. Was this real life? Did I deserve all this luxury? The earth vibrated in loving energy all around me, and I was sad that I often forgot her. She reminded me that quiet exists. That quiet is glorious and should be nurtured from within.

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Shaun and I stayed there until night fell and the morepork came, chittering from the trees. Tuis joined too, and stars dotted the deep black dome above.

As the temperature dropped, we waddled back to the cottage, bundled in towels and cradled by a chattering nightwood.

Firewood, Pinecones, Tea, and Biscuits

Now that I’d finally relaxed, I was determined to do more of it. And nothing relaxes me more than a steaming cup of tea. As the kettle boiled, Shaun threw some firewood into the woodburner, warming the little cottage in minutes.

For the next hour, I tended the fire with pinecones and sipped on tea… the exact coziness I’m looking for in the autumn season. Shaun and I even devoured a jar of biscuits on the kitchen shelf, despite our strict no-sugar diet.

And that is evidence that this riverside paradise did its job. I had fully relinquished control… a necessity in this game of life, one I often need reminding of.

A True Off-Grid Experience: Kaituna Riverside Cottages and the Calm of the Wairarapa

I had a lot of time to think during my stay here. I pondered the difference between people like Rose and people like me. Those who replenish their mana from the land every day, and those who run on reserves, draining themselves to the last drop.

I understood why Rose and her family settled here, why they built this cottage.

Over the hill, thousands labored away as the city buzzed at their windows. Weary souls ached to reconnect with the earth, and here was the perfect place waiting for us to come looking.

Rose explained to me that she found Tūrangawaewae on this land: a powerful Māori concept of finding home, a place to plant your feet and grow roots. And it made sense, given my first impression of her. I could almost see roots growing from the soles of her feet, the wind bending around her as she walked.

She opened her land to others so they can experience it too, solitude in the abundance of nature. “We can’t not share this,” as she put it.

I couldn’t deny the sense of peace in my bones the next morning as I threw feed and ducks waddled around my feet. Finally grounded, I swore I’d keep this feeling with me when we returned to the city.

I highly rate my stay at Kaituna Riverside Cottages… a true off-grid Wairarapa retreat with all the right comforts, where nature whispers into the threads of your soul and stitches you back together.