Chronicling a magical nature retreat on top of a mountain at the Dirt Farm Cottage
A slow stay in Hautere, Wellington, New Zealand
A nature retreat came at the right time for this exhausted little soul. Anxious, overworked, with a tipping pile of commitments, I felt preposterous leaving everything behind to go hide in the Tararua mountain ranges for the weekend.
I arrived unceremoniously, stumbling down the gravel path. I glanced briefly at the sunset views, finding it difficult to care. From experience, I know this as a telling sign of a breaking point… when I land in sacred spaces with barely a reaction.
My friend, the guest of honour whose birthday we planned to celebrate, greeted me with a running hug. She ushered me through the cottage and out the back, to a deck that commanded the most beautiful sight I’d seen in a while.
Rolling hills. Emerald green pastures. The great sea in the far.
I remembered to breathe. Then ensued a most romantic weekend where I found myself glued to the deck, eyes fixed on the horizon, belly full of happy drinks and homemade pizza.
Enjoy this low-simmer piece of our nature retreat at the Dirt Farm Cottage in Hautere, Wellington, New Zealand.
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The Dirt Farm: a mountain biking playground
It was an hour drive up Kapiti Coast to Hautere, where our cottage waited.
For once, I hadn’t been responsible for booking the trip, so I arrived without any prior knowledge of the land.
For example, I didn’t know the cottage sat atop a mountain which operated as a business called the Dirt Farm, carved with mountain biking tracks. Climbing up the driveway, a 5-min winding ride to the top of the hill, we spotted flashes in the trees. Cyclists zipping away on treacherous paths, what to me seemed like a strange idea of a good time.
The details clicked into place. Signs to honk as we trundled up the driveway with sharp curves up the mountain. Small lots where family vehicles parked, waiting on a shuttle with bike racks to transport them into the ranges. Tents dotted the ranges, pitched precariously over the valley.
An entire ecosystem thrived here, far from the city, in remote Wellington. It was a display of the hardy kiwis I know and love, those who wade into Tararua Forest Park on the weekends, preferring nature and adventure to the stifling bustle of the city.
The off-grid Dirt Farm Cottage in rural Hautere
As aforementioned, I arrived to the Dirt Farm Cottage tired and overwhelmed. It didn’t fully click what I was seeing until I stepped out onto one of three decks.
Words can’t do it justice so enjoy the photo below.
There isn’t a corner in the cottage that doesn’t offer some kind of view. Both bedrooms, furnished with a superking and lined with glass doors, look out onto the ranges. The kitchen, large and modern, opens out to another deck and a grassy lawn, perfect for a scenic yoga session.
The deck was equipped with a large dining table for maximum enjoyment. Here, we ate, drank, played cards, laughed until sundown, and counted the stars.
To my relief, the cottage is off-grid. My phone only worked when necessary (for example, to send a text). Otherwise, it sat forgotten in the corner. I could’ve happily stayed there for days. The fridge is large enough to stock a feast, and all whiteware is provided, along with a giant oven.
However. As remote as the Dirt Farm Cottage is, it’s only a twenty-minute drive back to civilisation. And we couldn’t spend a few days on Kapiti Coast without going for a swim.
Kapiti Coast and Paraparaumu
Paraparaumu may not be lush as the city but it is dotted with small towns and surprisingly fabulous establishments. Paraparaumu has that small-town Kiwi vibe I’ve come to love. Family-owned businesses perch along the roads, serving Kiwi As drinks and foods. And I was stoked to see pāua pies served in a few cafes. (Pāua is an abalone found only in New Zealand and it’s delicious).
The best thing about Kapiti Coast is its beaches. Facing west, giant stretches of sand offer perfect swimming waters (much warmer than the city beaches), and epic sunsets over the horizon. We swam at Peka Peka, which was busier than normal on a sunny Saturday. But there are many more beaches to choose from along the coast, each with different views of the famous Kapiti Island.
A perfect slow stay at Dirt Farm Cottage
As lovely as our excursion was, we were eager to return to our retreat at the Dirt Farm Cottage. There, above the world and encircled by nature, a sense of home settled within. And I understood why people built remote cottages such as these.
Over the course of three days, I was soothed by bird sounds, stick insects, and all-day sun. Cooking meals and preparing tea was elevated by the landscape peering through the windows from every angle. Sunrise streamed into the lounge. Sunset streamed into the bedroom.
Two playful goats grazed below the deck, and a friendly dog kept us company when it suited her.
The space is designed for ultimate self-care, from the comfy bed to the porcelain tub. There are three decks to choose from for meditation and journaling. The grassy lawn was perfect for yoga or a cup of tea. As stars dotted the sky and our laughter echoed across the hills, we declared this was our new favorite spot and promised we would return again and again.
